Getbig Bodybuilding, Figure and Fitness Forums
Getbig Misc Discussion Boards => Pet Board => Topic started by: MisterMagoo on May 09, 2008, 03:22:44 PM
-
okay, so for the past two weeks-ish i've been visiting a bulldog, named him hurley, and awaited my return from vacation to take him home.
enter: complication.
a woman has been angling for this dog for a bit now, and today expressed this desire. upon being told of the situation, she was frustrated, asking if it was for SURE that i was going to come back and buy him. normally i'd have just shrugged this off.
HOWEVER.
hurley's dad has had another progeny (they breed the bitches, as most, every 18 months as i found out). this guy is 8 months old and an absolute doll. sweet as hell.
so why should i give a crap? after all, i've been bonding with hurley for two weeks. well, as an 8 week old puppy, it means he is guaranteed to be much more socialized than hurley. he'll be easier to train, easier to get him used to grooming, the transition period will be easier, since he's a lot calmer at 8 weeks.
what do you all think? pictures of the little guy enclosed.
-
I like that one...but go with want your heart tells you
-
I like that one...but go with want your heart tells you
well my heart tells me no matter what the older dog will get a home, be it mine or this other woman's (and if at the end I take him home as per the prior plans i will be happy as a clam), but i can arrange it so two dogs get homes.
i'm waiting to find out what she thinks tomorrow. if she wants to take the older dog, i take the younger. if she has changed her mind, the fates decided i keep the big guy.
-
It's a sign!! GET THEM BOTH!!!!! Hurley and Bunny!!!!
If you can only get one maybe take the pup and let the woman have Hurley and you can arrange play dates :)
-
That's for you to decide big guy, which one fits better into your lifestyle. Obviously Hurley being a bit older may need a little more attention at first, but they learn quickly. And the new guy is just 8 weeks so you'll get the whole potty training experience.......
Do what you feel is right.
-
That's a tuff decision. At least the older one would have a home.
BTW...the other woman...she is not like Korean is she?
-
That's for you to decide big guy, which one fits better into your lifestyle. Obviously Hurley being a bit older may need a little more attention at first, but they learn quickly. And the new guy is just 8 weeks so you'll get the whole potty training experience.......
Do what you feel is right.
at this point i'm thinking either will fit, and from what little time i've spent with each i will get along famously with both. training and socializing the younger will go well, but the older has a great personality as it is.
however, i realize that if this woman takes the older dog, then two puppies get a home. so while it may sting to give up the one i've played with until now, i realize that he gets a good home AND the younger does.
-
at this point i'm thinking either will fit, and from what little time i've spent with each i will get along famously with both. training and socializing the younger will go well, but the older has a great personality as it is.
however, i realize that if this woman takes the older dog, then two puppies get a home. so while it may sting to give up the one i've played with until now, i realize that he gets a good home AND the younger does.
Sounds like you know what you want to do. ;)
-
Sounds like you know what you want to do. ;)
things worked out! just... backwards. the woman bought the puppy. i keep hurley. i'm actually happy it went that way. :)
and in OTHER news, it turns out he has a wheat allergy and my once-a-day doling out of a few Beggin Strips is why his fur hasn't been tip-top lately. replacing that crap with nutrical, giving him some cream, and vitamin E and he'll be good as new.
the breeder was there, and we chatted for a while. he gave me a few supplies for him, some numbers and a ball-load of literature to read. said he'd be a great candidate for breeding. all i need is an extra $500. ::)
-
& a x-ray to OFFA
-
Thats great Magoo, you would of had to come up with another name. ;D
Since he has a suspected wheat allergy, have you considered feeding him a raw, species appropriate grain free diet? 8)
-
Since he has a suspected wheat allergy, have you considered feeding him a raw, species appropriate grain free diet? 8)
i have, actually! thinking about the logistics of it, not sure i can wrangle it.
-
i have, actually! thinking about the logistics of it, not sure i can wrangle it.
One dog, no problemo ;)
by logistics do you mean storing the food, or putting a diet together or what?
It really is not as difficult as some would make you think. It does help if you have a freeze or good freezer space because you can buy in bulk and save money, but I know people who don't have a freezer and they do it. There is a raw feeding thread around here somewhere I will find and bump. :)
-
it's a combo of storage, being confident in my ability to set the diet up, something like "if I go on vacation", and cost. what does a raw diet cost compared to a semi-premium commercial food diet? those kinds of questions.
-
it's a combo of storage, being confident in my ability to set the diet up, something like "if I go on vacation", and cost. what does a raw diet cost compared to a semi-premium commercial food diet? those kinds of questions.
Well raw can be as expensive or cheaper or the same. I figured it out that I can feed cheaper or about the same compared to premium crap-in-a-bag. This is not including the health benefits and satisfaction they get from eating real food. ;)
Now I have 2 freezers for my dogs and I buy in bulk cases so of course it is cheaper than if I was going to the grocery store buying packages of items. Their is also preground raw that a number of companies make for those who don't want to feed whole bones or for convenience. That is a more expensive way to feed.
I have went on a few vacations and I have someone come stay with the dogs. I pre-bag their meals so they just have to dump them in the bowl. You can find places that board animals that will feed the food you bring, or you could get pre-ground or the freeze dried raw that is like kibble if they won't do raw bones.
I have been in a local buyers group since end of last year and I have saved even more and have been able to find more variety cheaper, depending on where you are their may be a similar group in your area.
There are tons of yahoo groups about raw feeding, some breed specific or location specific, and some just general, you can look for one to join, and their are a number of books out there too. If you can find someone local to 'mentor' you that could help you find sources and get comfortable with the diet. I do variety/balance over time and have no set feeding menu that I follow; I just rotate foods through and add some offal (organs) a few times a week to some meals, or whatever they haven't had in awhile. It is harder to balance a humans diet than a carnivore yet somehow people manage to do it just fine without training!
And of course there are a number of *hack hack cough blech* kibbles out there that will do okay *hack hack cough blech* . There have been few threads on choosing one.
-
i found this one about kibbles, which seemed fair enough to me: http://www.bulldogbreeds.com/discuss/viewtopic.php?t=642&sid=ecafd61602b8d63650a5c17c0572444e
i'm going to chat with his vet and his breeder, to see what they think. undoubtedly raw feeding can and does work for tons of dogs, but i'm not convinced it's a universal cure-all. if they're on board, i'm going to at least sketch out logistics.
-
i found this one about kibbles, which seemed fair enough to me: http://www.bulldogbreeds.com/discuss/viewtopic.php?t=642&sid=ecafd61602b8d63650a5c17c0572444e
i'm going to chat with his vet and his breeder, to see what they think. undoubtedly raw feeding can and does work for tons of dogs, but i'm not convinced it's a universal cure-all. if they're on board, i'm going to at least sketch out logistics.
Raw IS universal for every carnivore. ;) Kibble is not. They are designed to eat, digest and use a carnivore diet.
Curious, why do you care what they think? So if one or both is against it you wouldn't even if you thought it would be best and workable for you?
Good thing people came along 50 years ago and made kibble ::)
A lot of vets and people are clueless and uniformed. I would not not feed raw because either the breeder or the vet was against it. I would only go by what I felt comfortable with and with my research, not what the brainwashed public (including vets!) has been made to believe.
Whatever you decide make it your decision only. You are the one that is going to live with him and take care of him (and pour in the same dead, boring, species inappropriate food into his bowl everyday! sorry, had to get that in! ;D)
-
If looking at crap-in-the-bags look for the first 4/4 or 3/4 ingredients to be a meat product.
now I have to go get this crapple taste out of my month for that tip! :P :P :P :P
-
haha, well i realize that i am horribly ignorant on this matter and chances are the guy who bred him and the medical specialist will know a few more things than me. i'll talk it out with them and see what they think. it's a weird thing to think about, since no one seems ambivalent about it. it's either "do it! best thing ever!" or "don't! it will murder your dog and rape your wife!"
EDIT: and yeah, i realize they're carnivores. it's not the "whole foods" part i'm iffy about, it's the "raw" part.
-
FYI: It used to be that Hills (and still is I believe for at least some schools) sponsored the brief nutrition part of veterinary school.
Not that would sway or influence anything in their learning. 8)
-
Please don't let that psycho sway you into feeding raw food to your dog.
Feed it whatever you think is best, there is no right or wrong. If you had never taken notice she tries to push a raw diet onto anyone who owns a dog.
"have you considered feeding him a raw, species appropriate grain free diet?"
She sounds like a huckster trying to sell you bananas.
PS - cue flower and the "omg you are obsessed" waa waa waa.
-
Please don't let that psycho sway you into feeding raw food to your dog.
Feed it whatever you think is best, there is no right or wrong. If you had never taken notice she tries to push a raw diet onto anyone who owns a dog.
"have you considered feeding him a raw, species appropriate grain free diet?"
She sounds like a huckster trying to sell you bananas.
PS - cue flower and the "omg you are obsessed" waa waa waa.
heaven forbid you feed a carnivore a diet for a carnivore :o
a species appropriate diet is always right. Can an animal survive on something else, of course, but why not look into the appropriate diet before settling for something adequate, but not perfectly suited?
And it is not that you are obsessed temper, it is that you seem to be almost offended by the suggestion? It is not my fault that you chose to feed the way you do, don't try and prevent anyone else from feeding a species appropriate diet. Either come to grips with your feeding decision and get over it, or go ahead and feed your dog the way nature intended it to be fed. ;D If you think processed dead food that has to be supplemented up the ying yang to have any nutrients in it and contains filler much appropriate sustenance but stresses the body to digest it, then that is your choice and don't worry that other people chose to feed food that is not processed and the animal is made to derive sustenance from, and also cleans the teeth and is enjoyable to the animal to eat, and don't let it concern you that some people would like to show people they do have other options rather than what the misinformed would like them to believe.
hmm......food you can really eat and the body can really use........or processed grains with some meat products sprayed with flavoring to make it somewhat palatable..........decis ions decisions........ :-\
mother nature - huckster extraordinaire! ;)
wait, I figured it out!! You are showing your dog that YOU are dominant, that it will eat what you as a human think it should eat instead of what it is designed to eat. Way to be the alpha! ;)
ps- lite reading: http://www.5stardog.com/dog-food.asp
http://www.api4animals.org/facts.php?p=359&more=1 (http://www.api4animals.org/facts.php?p=359&more=1)
-
lol, hey. Flower obviously cares, she doesn't profit from her advice, it's out of concern for the animals. I'm not sure I'm on board with the raw diet but I've got it in 3 books so I'l keep reading.
-
lol, hey. Flower obviously cares, she doesn't profit from her advice, it's out of concern for the animals. I'm not sure I'm on board with the raw diet but I've got it in 3 books so I'l keep reading.
Even if you are not on board with it, I hope that your research will help you choose a *cough hack* better quality kibble especially since you suspect he already has a grain allergy.
I do agree with temper on that you (or anyone) should feed what you are comfortable with since it is your dog and you will be doing the feeding, my goal is to make that decision a bit more difficult and thought provoking ;D
-
Even if you are not on board with it, I hope that your research will help you choose a *cough hack* better quality kibble especially since you suspect he already has a grain allergy.
I do agree with temper on that you (or anyone) should feed what you are comfortable with since it is your dog and you will be doing the feeding, my goal is to make that decision a bit more difficult and thought provoking ;D
well i think it's not quite accurate to say there are no quality kibbles. after all, there are a heck of a lot of healthy human foods that are manufactured, a lot of them are even preservative-free and made out of whole ingredients, they're just "processed". look at a brand like kashi.
-
whatever you decide to do, its really probably one of the least of your worries as a bulldog owner.
-
whatever you decide to do, its really probably one of the least of your worries as a bulldog owner.
ain't that the truth. tomorrow i gotta clean up half the house, buy all the crap for him, and get his vet appointments ready. two crates, food dishes, food of SOME kind, lead and collar, grooming supplies, a harness or something for in the car or a THIRD crate otherwise, i've got a lot on my plate here. for $2000 he'd better run out into the front yard and mug the joggers. >:(
-
ain't that the truth. tomorrow i gotta clean up half the house, buy all the crap for him, and get his vet appointments ready. two crates, food dishes, food of SOME kind, lead and collar, grooming supplies, a harness or something for in the car or a THIRD crate otherwise, i've got a lot on my plate here. for $2000 he'd better run out into the front yard and mug the joggers. >:(
They make seatbelt harnesses, I don't know how good they are..........~flower~?
-
What does the title of this thread even mean? "Zach 'n' Hurley, back atcha." ???
-
They make seatbelt harnesses, I don't know how good they are..........~flower~?
I have never used them but I have heard they have saved lives. My big dogs are too big to ride in the seats, they ride in the back of the Rav4.
Get metal bowls, not plastic. You could get ceramic but they can break.
And the food you choose IS important (whether it be raw or kibble) I can't believe on a bb'ng board that I have to even say that. ::)
-
If you are going to go with kibble but switch to a different kind than he has been eating you might want to get his current food and the new food and slowly mix them over time til he is just eating the new food. Switching crapples suddenly has been know to cause digestive problems, not in every dog, but being in a new home may heighten that so I would be prepared. You can mix them slower or faster depending on how he does. :)
-
Seat belt harness's work. There's alot of reasons, but here's a few:
a) prevents the dog jumping around from seat to seat while driving
b) in an accident, prevents them from being thrown out of the vehicle or through the window
c) in an accident, in prevents the dog from fleeing the scene.
I've know 2 people that were in accidents & had a dog in the car. When they stop & looked around, they realized the dog 'flighted' from the scene because it got scared. Luckily one person I know, got their dog back 3 days later when someone found it miles from where the accident was.
Use metal bowls if you can.
Recent research has found not to use ceramic bowls especially if made from China. Basically because of lead contamination. I also read, they've pretty much figured out that problem & it's a problem in the past, but it's not like they ever recalled the original problem. So would you still want to take the chance? Everytime I go in a Pet store, I check the bowls. They're 95%+ made from China.
Plastic bowls are not a good recommendation. I used to have a lab & she was highly allergic to the plastic bowls.
-
fricken china >:( Good point on the ceramic knny, I avoid them because of the breakage but yours is an even better reason.
fricken china, lead paint, contaminated pet food ingredients that killed and harmed all those dogs. >:(
boycott the Olympics!! >:(
-
well i'm hitting up PetCo in a little while, we'll see what kinda stuff I can pick up. I've got my shopping list and a big list of the best kibbles, so at the very least I'll have a halfway decent dry food for him before i make my decision on raw/whole.
-
well i'm hitting up PetCo in a little while, we'll see what kinda stuff I can pick up. I've got my shopping list and a big list of the best kibbles, so at the very least I'll have a halfway decent dry food for him before i make my decision on raw/whole.
No offense, but you probably won't find any decent food at Petco or Petsmart.
-
No offense, but you probably won't find any decent food at Petco or Petsmart.
eh, i found something that'll last him a few weeks after i get him. next batch is getting ordered online.
-
No offense, but you probably won't find any decent food at Petco or Petsmart.
I was just about to say that :-\
I'm going to see if I can dig up the most recent WDJ top 10.
-
I was just about to say that :-\
I'm going to see if I can dig up the most recent WDJ top 10.
well, hopefully they have a decent return policy. I might as well go on a little errand tomorrow, i've got the extra time.
and apparently they carry royal canin bulldog, which got a score of 100 on the link i gave.
-
well, hopefully they have a decent return policy. I might as well go on a little errand tomorrow, i've got the extra time.
and apparently they carry royal canin bulldog, which got a score of 100 on the link i gave.
For what it is worth, I feed my dog the Chicken Soup for the dog lovers soul adult formula. It sounds gimmicky or gay but it isn't, I actually am pretty sure it is one of the few kibbles flower recommends.
I used Solid Gold for a while when he was a puppy. Then for over a year or so I tried Canidae which seemed to make his bowel movements irregular, almost constipating him. Also tried Eagle Pack, which was the same result more or less. I'm happy with the Chicken Soup, and you can order it online and it is cheap too.
-
i actually went for the nature's recipe healthy skin. it got a pretty high rating on that site, so it should be good to start off until i settle for something else.
toss me a link for the chicken soup business? i'm curious now.
-
For what it is worth, I feed my dog the Chicken Soup for the dog lovers soul adult formula. It sounds gimmicky or gay but it isn't, I actually am pretty sure it is one of the few kibbles flower recommends.
Yes she does. That is what I feed mainly because of her endorsement ;D
-
hmmmm. might hafta look into that.
hurley's skin is looking better... except in the wrinkles on the side. and i think that's because, in order to counteract the problems related to the food allergy, the guy has been putting some kind of anti-fungal cream in there and, unless i'm mistaken, that left the wrinkles all moist and voila! the fur stripped out.
gimme a week without that gunk and i've a feeling he'll be in ship shape.
-
Flower, or vet, or anyone, while were on the topic of skin/etc. Plato has had eye boogies/leaky eyes since he was born. Vets say it is probably just allergies. His eyes are never red or anything and it never seems to bother him, but they are yucky like when he opens his eyes after sleeping or something.
Is there any decent food that could possibly help the issue? Or could it be a food issue in general?
-
If there is...let me know. I get eye boogies every morning ;D
Seriously, I find with dogs or humans it's more about 'air borne' particles that give us eye boogies.
Some days my dog is good....some days it's worse. I can usually tell some days are going to be worse than others.
-
temper- It could be that is airborne like knny said, dust, grass, pollen. Is like really gunky or just "normal" eye boogies? If they start to get really bad or funky looking then a culture might be needed with an eye exam, or if you notice something with the actual eyeball that is odd. You can rinse his eyes out with plain sterile saline solution like for contacts (make sure it is just saline solution). Emmett has droopy eyes (haws?) and they seem to get boogiesh sometimes. I will rinse them out for him unless Tad beats me to it. Yes, Tad will clean Emmett's eyes, it is really gross. :P
They make some eye rinses for canines with eyebright and goldenseal in them (2 seperate bottles, HALO is one brand that I know of) that you could look into. They can soothe the eye more than just saline if it is an allergy flare up and you know it is not something more serious.
-
Scout has been getting Chicken Soup since he was 11 weeks. He loves it. Sometimes I mix in a spoonful of plain yogurt, or pumpkin or cottage cheese and sometimes as a treat, I'll mix in a spoonful of canned tripe (from Solid Gold). He smells that the second the can opener punctures the lid. ;D
http://www.chickensoupforthepetloverssoul.com/products/dogs/dry_food/
(http://www.diamondpet.com/_includes/thumbnail.php?gd=2&src=../formula_images/th_CS%20Adult%20Dog.jpg&maxw=95)
-
[
So replace those with the metal and then get metal some time for the ceramic 2.
Will do!!! Thanks!!
-
that chicken soup stuff seems interesting. depending on how hurley does with the nature's recipe i might pick some of that up.
-
i'm a total fucking dork.
i found this little dog store in SoCal here (vay-cay with the family, you know how that goes) and checked out what they had. one of the products was a little leather harness. hand-made in canada, so naturally i felt like picking one up. it was more expensive than i should have ever considered spending on something like that, but hey. it seems like it'll be useful on a dog that's got breathing issues anyway.
http://buddy-belts.com/m_37.asp
-
i'm a total fucking dork.
i found this little dog store in SoCal here (vay-cay with the family, you know how that goes) and checked out what they had. one of the products was a little leather harness. hand-made in canada, so naturally i felt like picking one up. it was more expensive than i should have ever considered spending on something like that, but hey. it seems like it'll be useful on a dog that's got breathing issues anyway.
http://buddy-belts.com/m_37.asp
If he pulls on the leash even a little bit, take the harness off. Dogs that pull carts/etc wear harnesses. If you don't want to make the pulling worse, don't use a harness and use a choker collar, or something else. People generally buy harnesses because they think its 'safer'. Yes, it IS safer...when your dog pulls like a maniac, but it gives you no control over a dog at all, and generally encourages the pulling. Bully breeds have breathing issues, yes, but they could have the worst breathing issues in the world, and the fact of the matter is none of it should matter since when a leash is on, there should be no pressure on the neck if the dog walks properly.
If he walks nice, then more power to you, put on whatever you want. But from a training standpoint, there is zero need for a harness. They just aren't used, ever.
And this post wasn't meant to knock you down, and you definitely aren't a dork. There is a lot of small, up scale, original pet shops in Philly and I bought Plato a TON of shit from there when I got him. TONS. The money I spent is startling, lol. I was just offering advice in terms of the actual harness, being that I didn't know what your conception of it was. If you need any help, let me know.
-
i'm keeping the collar, yes. it'll be impossible to "train" with a harness, from what i've read. of course, there's also a school of thought apparently that says dogs pull MORE with a collar because it's on their necks (as per that video). that said, if he's impossible to take care of with the harness, the collar goes back on until he settles down. i think of it like a prize for being well-behaved. :)
of course, on the flipside, one thing i've read on bullies is that they're likely to fight a lot more than most. i noticed this when the one time i tried to clip his nails and he was not up for it. he fought to the point that he threw up a little, and all i got was one paw done (he's gotten MUCH better since then). if he's going to put up that kind of a fight with something around his neck, then i'm going to have a problem on my hands.
at the end of the day i think it's going to be a trial. maybe he'll take right to it, maybe he won't. maybe the lack of pressure on his throat will help him be more receptive to things like "don't run if i don't want you to" and maybe he WILL need the collar. i suppose i'll be playing it by ear.
trust me, my man, i don't take anything as offense when it comes to animal advice. i recognize that all i know comes mostly from reading, so it's always good to get some advice and tips.
-
i'm keeping the collar, yes. it'll be impossible to "train" with a harness, from what i've read. of course, there's also a school of thought apparently that says dogs pull MORE with a collar because it's on their necks (as per that video). that said, if he's impossible to take care of with the harness, the collar goes back on until he settles down. i think of it like a prize for being well-behaved. :)
of course, on the flipside, one thing i've read on bullies is that they're likely to fight a lot more than most. i noticed this when the one time i tried to clip his nails and he was not up for it. he fought to the point that he threw up a little, and all i got was one paw done (he's gotten MUCH better since then). if he's going to put up that kind of a fight with something around his neck, then i'm going to have a problem on my hands.
at the end of the day i think it's going to be a trial. maybe he'll take right to it, maybe he won't. maybe the lack of pressure on his throat will help him be more receptive to things like "don't run if i don't want you to" and maybe he WILL need the collar. i suppose i'll be playing it by ear.
trust me, my man, i don't take anything as offense when it comes to animal advice. i recognize that all i know comes mostly from reading, so it's always good to get some advice and tips.
I've never ever heard that about the pulling because it is around their neck thing. Ever. Sounds like a marketing ploy. There may be a 'school of thought' for that, I've just never heard it. I've personally never seen a dog wearing a harness who wasn't pulling.
My thing with harnesses is, there is no correction tool when training. How can you correct a dog with a harness on?
-
My thing with harnesses is, there is no correction tool when training. How can you correct a dog with a harness on?
wouldn't you be "correcting" him by restraining him from movement when he pulls, but allowing him some moving space when he's behaving? i don't see why "correction" is indelibly tied to doing something that hurts. sounds to me like the school of thought that says the only way to house train a dog is to rub his nose in his own shit when he goes in the house.
-
wouldn't you be "correcting" him by restraining him from movement when he pulls, but allowing him some moving space when he's behaving? i don't see why "correction" is indelibly tied to doing something that hurts. sounds to me like the school of thought that says the only way to house train a dog is to rub his nose in his own shit when he goes in the house.
You restraining him from movement is creating the sensation that is causing him to pull, you are just feeding the reaction. If he pulls and you pull back, he pulls harder. In dogs with strong working drives, if they are pulling with a harness on, and you are pulling back...why would they stop? That is work. They love it. There is nothing about a harness that is able to correct a dog. People buy them because their dogs pull on the leash, and they are too fucking lazy to train them, and they figure 'Hey at least he isn't choking his self to death, he is just pulling on the harness'. Most of the time when people buy harnesses for dogs with these issues, it just gets worse. Would they rather pull against a choker collar or pull against a harness? Unless you train them not to, they are gonna do it either way. So that said, if the dog is determined to pull, what way do you think he'd rather have it? People who buy harnesses are settling.
For a dog like a bulldog, and any dog really, choke collars and prong collars are not designed to create 'pain'. They are made to give an awkward and uncomfortable feeling that is supposed to be used to teach the dog right and wrong. Of course I can't sit here and go "well it doesnt hurt/displeasure/annoy/whatever them", I'm not them, I don't know that. Most obedience trainers with a brain would not even let someone into their class unless they were willing to use a choker/greyhound/prong on their dog. A harness gives you no way to quickly react to an undesired behavior, and even if you were to devise a way to correct a dog wearing a harness, it would be many seconds after the use of quickly popping a choker collar.
No one is advocating to 'hurt' your dog. I don't understand how using a training collar, namely a choker collar, which is probably(very very likely) the 1# most recommended form of a collar for training purposes...is akin in any way to rubbing a dogs nose in shit. I don't see how you could make that analogy, or even attempt to support it with any factual basis. "Correction" is indelibly tied to doing something that will get your dogs attention and let it know what it did was wrong in the most humane way possible.
That lady in the video saying "this to them, is not resistance" is fucking retarded. If according to her as 'theory' suggests, pressure on the neck makes them tend to 'pull alot', then I guess all these dogs are working with the wrong apparatus.
Harnesses are the safest way for a dog to pull something. COULD you train a dog using a harness? Of course you COULD, but that depends alot on the temperament of the dog.
PS- If your dog shits in the house, and you catch him in the act, you say ah ah ah scoop him up and run him to wherever he can go, and when he does, praise him like he just won the pulitzer. If you don't catch him in the act, there is nothing you can do. Clean it up and move on. Rubbing a dogs nose in shit is an excellent way for it to lose its confidence, bring on a general sense of fear towards you, and a great way for it to develop coprophagia. That is about it.
-
i'm a little fatigued, but i'll respond to what i can. to say it's "settling" though is rather BS, since my reason for purchase has nothing to do with not wanting to train him. thanks for the assumption, however. ::)
the theory is that the reason for not pulling is the realization that it's not achieving what he wants. i have not had explained to me why an uncomfortable sensation is necessary to train, as opposed to simple positive reinforcement.
to use a different analogy, most training manuals suggest that if you have a jumping dog, you don't swat him on the head until he stops jumping, you simply refuse to give him attention until he stops jumping, thus making him go "hey, when i don't jump, i get nice things!" i have yet had anyone explain to me why a dog cannot learn other things in a similar manner; the simple restraining from movement when pulling and giving of freedom when being calm.
i understand the idea, and i really, really wish you'd stop getting so confrontational since i don't think i've taken that attitude with you. my thing is that i quite literally don't see why sheer positive reinforcement cannot be used in general. i'm strong enough to stop him from moving if i don't want him to move. if we're out for a walk and he goes in directions i don't want him to go, the walk stops and i restrain him. he settles down and we move along.
now, if it's a harsh case and i cannot restrain him via the harness, sure i'll go back to the leash because it seems more is needed. all i'm saying is that the "collars are all that work" attitude has never made sense to me when the same attitude is not applied elsewhere.
again, i am not saying "collars are bad and no one should use them ever", they have a track record and are universally trusted. all i'm suggesting is that this is not something i buy to "settle". if anything it could take a little more work for exactly the reasons you outlined. what i'm saying is that it's entirely reasonable that this thing could work well.
so i'll give it a try, and i will 100% eat crow if after a few weeks he's not responding to it. this isn't a point of ego to me, i'm not personally invested in whether or not it works. i just really think it could.
-
i'm a little fatigued, but i'll respond to what i can. to say it's "settling" though is rather BS, since my reason for purchase has nothing to do with not wanting to train him. thanks for the assumption, however. ::)
the theory is that the reason for not pulling is the realization that it's not achieving what he wants. i have not had explained to me why an uncomfortable sensation is necessary to train, as opposed to simple positive reinforcement.
to use a different analogy, most training manuals suggest that if you have a jumping dog, you don't swat him on the head until he stops jumping, you simply refuse to give him attention until he stops jumping, thus making him go "hey, when i don't jump, i get nice things!" i have yet had anyone explain to me why a dog cannot learn other things in a similar manner; the simple restraining from movement when pulling and giving of freedom when being calm.
i understand the idea, and i really, really wish you'd stop getting so confrontational since i don't think i've taken that attitude with you. my thing is that i quite literally don't see why sheer positive reinforcement cannot be used in general. i'm strong enough to stop him from moving if i don't want him to move. if we're out for a walk and he goes in directions i don't want him to go, the walk stops and i restrain him. he settles down and we move along.
now, if it's a harsh case and i cannot restrain him via the harness, sure i'll go back to the leash because it seems more is needed. all i'm saying is that the "collars are all that work" attitude has never made sense to me when the same attitude is not applied elsewhere.
again, i am not saying "collars are bad and no one should use them ever", they have a track record and are universally trusted. all i'm suggesting is that this is not something i buy to "settle". if anything it could take a little more work for exactly the reasons you outlined. what i'm saying is that it's entirely reasonable that this thing could work well.
so i'll give it a try, and i will 100% eat crow if after a few weeks he's not responding to it. this isn't a point of ego to me, i'm not personally invested in whether or not it works. i just really think it could.
So swatting them in the head doesn't hurt, but a choker collar does? :) I personally also have never heard swatting a dog on the head as a method to stop them from jumping. To take issue with that, what do you think is more humane and effective? A slight pop of a choker collar around one of the most sensitive parts of a dogs body, so that little force needs to be applied...or directly striking your dog on the head because it is jumping? I honestly don't even see the reason why that is a warranted correction, jumping is usually seeded in alot of other reasons that go deeper than the dog just 'jumping'. You can tell alot of times when a dog has been taught using physical force by whether or not they are hand shy. You know, when you outreach your hand and it backs away or is leary.
No one is being confrontational and no one said said you are settling. Relax. I used the large % of harness buyers as those who settle, I never said you, you had explained why you bought the harness.
In my personal opinion, you are setting yourself up for defeat with the harness. That is just what I personally believe. There is a reason people do not use them for training purposes, and the reason is the reason I stated.
the theory is that the reason for not pulling is the realization that it's not achieving what he wants.
What he wants to do is to pull. To guide. To lead. So by your way of thinking, he pulls and you stop walking. So he stops pulling. Where did he ever realize that he can't pull? You start walking again, he starts pulling. Repeat. Where is the correction? I am sure a 'no' is going to do nothing if he is that determined and hell-bent on pulling, not to mention how unsincere your 'no' is going to sound when you are in such a frustrating situation. If anything, the stopping and going is going to make things worse. It becomes a game and he is anticipating the pulling. It is almost like rewarding him for being calm with pulling.
If a dog were to live with their mother until they were grown, or if he lived in a house full of balanced, pack oriented dogs, they would never ignore a puppy's misbehavior. Growls, baring of teeth, muzzling, and many other ways would be used to show the puppy that his behavior is unwanted. They are all corrections. Dogs are not passive creatures when the stability of pack life is threatened. Yes, they are dogs and not wolves, but there is still a survival instinct. Any weak link is an issue.
I'm just trying to help you, but it appears you have bought into the hype. I had already stated that it is not impossible to train a dog wearing a harness. But in years of obedience class, I have never seen any dog wear a harness, nor have I seen the older, accomplished dogs with anything but at least a choker. This includes small, sensitive breeds such as a poodle and miniature schnauzer, who have worn at least a choker since puppyhood, and both have their UDX....and are confident and affectionate too.
You do what you feel is right.
-
"temper" has a severe case of "Iamalwaysrightus". :-\
-
i'm going to make this one brief... ish.
So swatting them in the head doesn't hurt, but a choker collar does? :)
no, doofy. my point was that if we don't smack him on the head to stop him from doing something (jumping, biting, barking, whatever), then why choke him to stop him from pulling?
the theory is that the reason for not pulling is the realization that it's not achieving what he wants.
What he wants to do is to pull. To guide. To lead. So by your way of thinking, he pulls and you stop walking. So he stops pulling. Where did he ever realize that he can't pull? You start walking again, he starts pulling. Repeat. Where is the correction? I am sure a 'no' is going to do nothing if he is that determined and hell-bent on pulling, not to mention how unsincere your 'no' is going to sound when you are in such a frustrating situation. If anything, the stopping and going is going to make things worse. It becomes a game and he is anticipating the pulling. It is almost like rewarding him for being calm with pulling.
bingo! you got it, but then you went off the reservation.
of course the "no" means nothing. what DOES mean something is when he cannot move forward when he pulls hard against the harness. i can overpower the little meatball, he's not a 180 pound bullmastiff. the idea is that he does not get to walk unless he stops pulling. and i mean that in more than just pulling against the leash, it also happens if he starts to try and take the lead. if that happens, he gets hauled back and we stop again. over time, ideally, he'll figure out that the walks don't go as well if he tries to run ahead. all that changes is that he gets restrained by the chest, not the neck. everything else is identical. he's prevented from going where he tries to go, stopped from taking the lead.
now your last sentence DOES make a good point and thank you for finally getting to something i need to think about. until then it was just a bunch of "where's the correction?" and it felt like we weren't quite talking on the same page.
what i've never had explained is how a dog can learn everything from positive reinforcement EXCEPT walking calmly. you can house and crate train a dog with nothing but praise when he does well, he can learn every trick in the book with treats and not a shock collar, but walking requires a choke chain? how does that work?
again, the end lesson is that i'm going to do what's best for him, and if it turns out i'm wrong... then i'm wrong. i'd just like to understand how this apparent inconsistency works.
-
And I totally understand why you think there is inconsistency, because it makes sense in theory. In all of those other things that include positive reinforcement, the bad behavior is always corrected during the learning phase. Potty training, every obedience command, jumping, barking. There is SOME form of a correction. Let me try to explain this another way really briefly.
In formal obedience school, the first part of leash etiquette is for the dog to be able to calmly behave on a leash, and the leash should be loose. Puppies usually have a big problem with this since they are so inquisitive. When they begin to stray and the leash becomes taut, u pop the leash and give whatever correction you use. When the leash is loose, you can generally be calm and happy so the dog picks up on it, and pet him and what not. Dog learns that your happiness + loose leash + no uncomfortable sensation on their neck = good thing.
Heeling is taught much of the same way. No need to pop the leash unless the dog strays. Dog eventually learns that by staying in position that keeps neck-to-shoulder parallel to your leg is proper form. My dog does not walk in PERFECT heel position on walks, but hes right at my side and never ever in front of me. They get the point.
The thing that I am trying to explain is a dog pulling against a harness is not a correction, and it is not an unpleasant sensation. It will feed the desire to pull. You being stronger than the dog means nothing. It is almost like tug of war, sure its fun, but its still a dominance game. Who can pull harder and control the situation? He who can is the one in power, and they will try and try and try until they win. Any breed with the possibility of dominant tendencies are usually the ones with severe pulling issues, and usually the ones where tug of war is a bad idea. What I am trying to get you to understand is that a dog pulling with any collar, harness, or whatever, is not "walks don't go well" in their mind. That is EXACTLY what they want. The collar is irrelevant, they'll do it with anything on. It is not a sense of progression that they are after. You restraining him may keep him from moving, but there is always going to be an instance where he gains ground and then he has won. If a dog pulled like a madman they'd do it in a harness and they'd do it with a prong. But the harness is in no way uncomfortable to them, it is in fact the perfect apparatus to pull with...hence why it is used for working purposes.
Truth of the matter is, pulling issues are also deep-rooted issues that don't just lie on the level of the dog pulling. To use Cesar's show as an example, all of those dogs with terrible behavior issues also 'coincidentally' pull on the lead. There is a reason for this. You can't teach a dog that he can't pull by overpowering him into submission. You need to lead by example.
I'm honestly not sure why were having this discussion because I think it is highly unlikely he has this problem to begin with.
-
there's nothing really for me to argue against in that post (it made sense, by and large, and thanks for putting the effort into writing it all). this part i'm unsure about though.
And I totally understand why you think there is inconsistency, because it makes sense in theory. In all of those other things that include positive reinforcement, the bad behavior is always corrected during the learning phase. Potty training, every obedience command, jumping, barking. There is SOME form of a correction. Let me try to explain this another way really briefly.
what is the form of correction? most of what i've read the "correction" is in the sense of denying the dog what he wants. that's what i figured would be happening in this instance. i ask this not to be an asshole, but so i've got something else to mull over when i'm trying to teach him this stuff.
i think what's happening here, really, comes down to what you said on the end and frankly i feel like a jackass for not noticing: i'm not talking about using the harness as correction if he's using the leash for a tug of war. all i'm talking about is making sure he stays in line when walking, using it to "correct" him if, say, he wants to jog over and eat some flowers or run after another puppy. that's all i'm talking about.
i'm referring to pulling as the pursuit of another goal, not the goal itself. if what he wants to do is purely pull, then the harness does jack for exactly the reasons you said, i'm basically just pulling right back and it turns into fun. in that case he WOULD need a collar, like you've been saying. but that's not why i'm buying this.
the reason i bought a harness is for walking ONLY, and so i can stop him from abruptly chasing things or hopping off in random directions. if he starts to just pull like we're battling for dominance, off the thing comes and he can get it back when he learns to Quit Dat.
-
there's nothing really for me to argue against in that post (it made sense, by and large, and thanks for putting the effort into writing it all). this part i'm unsure about though.
what is the form of correction? most of what i've read the "correction" is in the sense of denying the dog what he wants. that's what i figured would be happening in this instance. i ask this not to be an asshole, but so i've got something else to mull over when i'm trying to teach him this stuff.
i think what's happening here, really, comes down to what you said on the end and frankly i feel like a jackass for not noticing: i'm not talking about using the harness as correction if he's using the leash for a tug of war. all i'm talking about is making sure he stays in line when walking, using it to "correct" him if, say, he wants to jog over and eat some flowers or run after another puppy. that's all i'm talking about.
i'm referring to pulling as the pursuit of another goal, not the goal itself. if what he wants to do is purely pull, then the harness does jack for exactly the reasons you said, i'm basically just pulling right back and it turns into fun. in that case he WOULD need a collar, like you've been saying. but that's not why i'm buying this.
the reason i bought a harness is for walking ONLY, and so i can stop him from abruptly chasing things or hopping off in random directions. if he starts to just pull like we're battling for dominance, off the thing comes and he can get it back when he learns to Quit Dat.
The thing is, whenever any dog learns how to walk properly. It doesn't matter what they are wearing because the lead is always loose. If someone wants to put a harness on their dog, go for it, but it'd be the same as a choker or a flat buckle collar, its all the same.
I don't know what you have read that says denying the dog what they want is a correction. Burn those books. The reason that 'corrections' are so important is because it associates the bad behavior with something unpleasant, just as a dog would learn that if he sits he may get a treat, or when he potties where he is supposed to it makes you very happy. If you are walking your dog and he has a thing for squirrels, and you restrain him from going after a squirrel, he is still never learning that he can't eat squirrels. It is much much easier to teach a dog that he is supposed to be by your side when out for a walk than to restrain him from the hundreds of things he may choose to be interested in.
Please understand that I am not saying a choker collar and popping it is a correction for every bad behavior. It is merely an obedience training tool that quickly and effectively associates bad behavior with an unpleasant sensation on a sensitive part of the body. I am not advocating putting a choker collar on a dog with a resource guarding problem, recreating the problem, then choking him to death with it. I am saying that for things like obedience commands and teaching a dog how to walk properly, some form of a training collar is the single most effective way to do it.
I am also not advocating militant dog walking, lol. Just as an example, when I walk my dog he walks by my side for 10-15min on the way to a park, then I give the 'release' command and he gets to sniff all over and do his business in a big open grassy area and do whatever dogs do, and then he gets back to my side and we walk for another 20min or so and then go home. Walks are the time for you to bond with your dog, they should be fun and they should be tiring, but have some sort of structure, like everything else in their life.
-
shortening this. i'm done with the debate. this discussion has gotten hilariously and retardedly long. all over a fucking little harness thing. good christ. it's a leather harness. i cannot imagine this will wreck his development.
look man, i'm not aiming to get my guy registered with any obedience certs or anything. my deal isn't to make him obey my beck and call (which would be one hell of a battle with a bulldog anyway, from what i'm reading). i'm not anticipating a dog that'll heel and roll over and shake and speak and do a hundred commands. as long as we can have a walk that doesn't involve him tearing around eating shit, i'm satisfied.
and anyway, a big fucking leather harness just looks way more badass than a collar. ;D
-
shortening this. i'm done with the debate. this discussion has gotten hilariously and retardedly long. all over a fucking little harness thing. good christ. it's a leather harness. i cannot imagine this will wreck his development.
look man, i'm not aiming to get my guy registered with any obedience certs or anything. my deal isn't to make him obey my beck and call (which would be one hell of a battle with a bulldog anyway, from what i'm reading). i'm not anticipating a dog that'll heel and roll over and shake and speak and do a hundred commands. as long as we can have a walk that doesn't involve him tearing around eating shit, i'm satisfied.
and anyway, a big fucking leather harness just looks way more badass than a collar. ;D
Hehe, it isn't as difficult as you think. It does nothing but give them someone/some rules to follow. People think obedience is like cruel or something, its not, its fantastic. And the battle with the bulldog is silly. I don't believe in any of the breed stereotype shit. There is nothing that can't be changed. Chances are he is going to be a lazy bum. Not gonna be long winded, cause this is a whole nother debate.
GL, if you need any help just PM me.
-
Hehe, it isn't as difficult as you think. It does nothing but give them someone/some rules to follow. People think obedience is like cruel or something, its not, its fantastic. And the battle with the bulldog is silly. I don't believe in any of the breed stereotype shit. There is nothing that can't be changed. Chances are he is going to be a lazy bum. Not gonna be long winded, cause this is a whole nother debate.
GL, if you need any help just PM me.
oh i definitely will if i run into issues. despite all i've said above, i do have two collars (one normal, one slip) in case i need 'em.
rules is good, and they'll be laid down, i just really don't anticipate teaching many commands beyond "come" "sit" and "down". it's not that i think it's cruel, i love watching those obedience exhibitions where people get their dogs to run obstacle courses or do crazy dances, that's just not anything i'm interested in doing. as long as he doesn't destroy the house and we can run around without him fighting me, i'm happy as a clam, y'know? getting certifications just doesn't interest me.
-
oh i definitely will if i run into issues. despite all i've said above, i do have two collars (one normal, one slip) in case i need 'em.
rules is good, and they'll be laid down, i just really don't anticipate teaching many commands beyond "come" "sit" and "down". it's not that i think it's cruel, i love watching those obedience exhibitions where people get their dogs to run obstacle courses or do crazy dances, that's just not anything i'm interested in doing. as long as he doesn't destroy the house and we can run around without him fighting me, i'm happy as a clam, y'know? getting certifications just doesn't interest me.
I hear you.
-
day 1: no real issue. he tugs this way or that in order to go after something, but if i "click" at him and tug the thing, he'll come. most of the short walk today as pretty slack in the lead. i was impressed.
-
day 1: no real issue. he tugs this way or that in order to go after something, but if i "click" at him and tug the thing, he'll come. most of the short walk today as pretty slack in the lead. i was impressed.
Who's the chick petting him?
Sounds like he will do good on the lead. Are you going to take him to formal classes?
-
Who's the chick petting him?
Sounds like he will do good on the lead. Are you going to take him to formal classes?
my little sista. 12 years old, it's kinda weird having a sibling THAT much younger.
formal classes? i doubt it. he's picking up on things pretty quickly and i'm not sure i want to have him heeling and rolling over or things like that. so long as he pees and poops outside and doesn't wreck the house, i'm satisfied. i'll work on other stuff as we go.
-
my little sista. 12 years old, it's kinda weird having a sibling THAT much younger.
formal classes? i doubt it. he's picking up on things pretty quickly and i'm not sure i want to have him heeling and rolling over or things like that. so long as he pees and poops outside and doesn't wreck the house, i'm satisfied. i'll work on other stuff as we go.
Sit, stay, drop.......those will be important.
-
Sit, stay, drop.......those will be important.
we're on the road to sit. he IS at the point where if i hold a treat in front of him he'll sit down, but we're not far enough yet that he'll sit just on command. drop he's got no problem with. thus far anything he starts chawing on he'll drop like a hot rock if we say "no" loudly enough.
"stay" and "come" look like they'll need the most work.
-
we're on the road to sit. he IS at the point where if i hold a treat in front of him he'll sit down, but we're not far enough yet that he'll sit just on command. drop he's got no problem with. thus far anything he starts chawing on he'll drop like a hot rock if we say "no" loudly enough.
"stay" and "come" look like they'll need the most work.
the point is not to instill fear by yelling. Loud isn't always going to work, they know you are frustrated.
-
When working with commands...try this
give one stern, firm, command...& wait a few seconds before issuing another one.
Most importantly....think about your posture & stand firm, shoulders square, head & chest lifted high. If you're using a hand signal too, hold the hand in one pointed direction & keep it there.
Do not smile....make yourself look as serious as possible. There's a projected energy that you're trying to have the dog receive. Sometimes these projected energies are better received than yelling or waiving your hand.
The reason why I say just make one command & wait a few seconds is because most of us get very impatient. Dogs can sense that & it will confuse them following through with the command you just gave them.
-
the point is not to instill fear by yelling. Loud isn't always going to work, they know you are frustrated.
oh i don't mean yelling. just a firm, resolute voice, you know? don't want to scare the li'l guy.
sounds good knny. that'll definitely be a part of the routine now.
-
oh i don't mean yelling. just a firm, resolute voice, you know? don't want to scare the li'l guy.
sounds good knny. that'll definitely be a part of the routine now.
I thought you meant like if you said no once, you'd just say it louder until he cowered. OK.
But what knny said. And generally with whatever you do, especially once he starts learns, if he doesn't sit when you say sit, you sit him. There should be no second attempt. They must learn to do things the first time you say things. I am not saying when you are teaching the command, but once he understands the concept and is trying your patience or being lazy, the first time you give the command you must follow through.
-
sounds logical, temper. i'm not sure how long it'll be before we're at that point, but hopefully soon. i think he's getting the idea of listening.
oh by the way, a further update on the harness. to see what would happen, i put the collar on him to take him out, figuring i'd give that a go. well, hurley was having none of THAT. he started thrashing his head and pulling like CRAZY. took it off, put the harness back on, and out we went.
now keep in mind i'm not saying this is universal by ANY stretch or that the tried and true collar training is bad, just that in this instance my guy really dislikes something around his neck.
and just to return to the cute, here he is, snoozing, right now on my thigh after i got home from the gym
-
sounds logical, temper. i'm not sure how long it'll be before we're at that point, but hopefully soon. i think he's getting the idea of listening.
oh by the way, a further update on the harness. to see what would happen, i put the collar on him to take him out, figuring i'd give that a go. well, hurley was having none of THAT. he started thrashing his head and pulling like CRAZY. took it off, put the harness back on, and out we went.
now keep in mind i'm not saying this is universal by ANY stretch or that the tried and true collar training is bad, just that in this instance my guy really dislikes something around his neck.
and just to return to the cute, here he is, snoozing, right now on my thigh after i got home from the gym
Great info in this thread for potential pup owners.
However, I am primarily interested in TEH CUTE, and there really need to be a lot more pics in this thread for my liking! He's ADORABLE!! :D
-
well then there'll be more pictures of teh cute in the upcoming days! :D
-
sounds logical, temper. i'm not sure how long it'll be before we're at that point, but hopefully soon. i think he's getting the idea of listening.
oh by the way, a further update on the harness. to see what would happen, i put the collar on him to take him out, figuring i'd give that a go. well, hurley was having none of THAT. he started thrashing his head and pulling like CRAZY. took it off, put the harness back on, and out we went.
now keep in mind i'm not saying this is universal by ANY stretch or that the tried and true collar training is bad, just that in this instance my guy really dislikes something around his neck.
and just to return to the cute, here he is, snoozing, right now on my thigh after i got home from the gym
It's just cause he isn't used to it. He isn't a wild horse or something haha.
So cute though. That dog owns.
-
The dog likes the harness because it gives him control
The collar gives him less control & more control to you
I prefer choke chains/loops or pinches.
-
The dog likes the harness because it gives him control
The collar gives him less control & more control to you
I prefer choke chains/loops or pinches.
well he doesn't fight me at all in the harness. we just got back inside from a walk and he never really strayed if i tugged. if he starts to get rowdy, i suppose it'll be a case of tough love. i feel a little lucky that we haven't needed it yet.
-
FWIW, Magoo, I soley used a harness on one of my pits, never had a control issue.
Just sayin fellas, relax. ::)
-
as per rip's request... :D
two of the fella snoozin', and one where he's kinda co-habitating with the cat.
-
as per rip's request... :D
two of the fella snoozin', and one where he's kinda co-habitating with the cat.
lol that is great. fat little meatball. so cute
-
lol that is great. fat little meatball. so cute
haha, he's losing weight, too. waist is looking better and his skin's all cleared up. vet said to avoid beef, wheat, and possibly lamb. so he's on a mix of canned and kibble (mostly canned), specifically nature's recipe healthy skin venison and rice. when he's hungry, he destroys the stuff. and oddly he doesn't eat a lot. takes him a few hours before he decides to finish a single meal.
-
as per rip's request... :D
two of the fella snoozin', and one where he's kinda co-habitating with the cat.
AWWWWWWWWWWwwwwwwwww magoo, he's ridiculously adorable! :D
I love the tongue sticking out!! :P
How much bigger is he gonna get?
-
AWWWWWWWWWWwwwwwwwww magoo, he's ridiculously adorable! :D
I love the tongue sticking out!! :P
How much bigger is he gonna get?
i initially pegged him at 60 pounds full-size, but i'm thinking if i got him dieted down to 46-ish now (according to the vet), he'll probably be about 55 as an adult, which is just about spot-on. less treats, better food, and exercise has him in better shape. he can jump around now and climb stairs without issue. imagine that, eating better and physical activity got him in good shape! :P
-
I love him like he's my own! :-*
Keep the cuteness coming! We don't have a DOM anymore, so maybe Hurley should just be GB's mascot. 8)
-
I love him like he's my own! :-*
Keep the cuteness coming! We don't have a DOM anymore, so maybe Hurley should just be GB's mascot. 8)
well he's little and fat, sleeps a lot, doesn't have a job, and doesn't lift. so he'd be perfect!
-
well he's little and fat, sleeps a lot, doesn't have a job, and doesn't lift. so he'd be perfect!
HAHAHHA, that is gold.
-
no better pictures lately, because probably 90% of his activity involves sleeping. but i will say that i had to deal with this face when i was getting ready to go to work:
-
no better pictures lately, because probably 90% of his activity involves sleeping. but i will say that i had to deal with this face when i was getting ready to go to work:
AWWWWW someone didn't want you to leave the house! :D
-
lol dude hes a tank ;D
-
so i decided to let hurley guard the house today. did he do a good job? you bet. check it, he had the place on lockdown. no WAY anyone was gonna sneak in! >:(
-
cool looking dog.
Now about your front porch.....
-
cool looking dog.
Now about your front porch.....
hahaha, it's the porch. i don't feel like painting it or anything, so whateva.
-
so i decided to let hurley guard the house today. did he do a good job? you bet. check it, he had the place on lockdown. no WAY anyone was gonna sneak in! >:(
LOL haha what a good guard dog! :D