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Getbig Main Boards => Gossip & Opinions => Topic started by: Marty Champions on July 23, 2017, 03:26:43 PM
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i have used sherwin williams xim brand in a spraycan wich was a total failure
i have used rustoleum tub 2 part epoxy another failure
im having a tuff time trying to find the best product that lasts and wont peel
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I was going to say rustoleum but apparently it didn't work for you. Are you sure you gave it enough time to dry?
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i have used sherwin williams xim brand in a spraycan wich was a total failure
i have used rustoleum tub 2 part epoxy another failure
im having a tuff time trying to find the best product that lasts and wont peel
It's not expensive to have someone come in and professionally resurface your tub where it sits. I got a guy to do it for $250 and it's like new.
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Never done it but I'd guess polyurethane put on with hvlp. If it's a fiberglass/acrylic bathtub you probably have to worry about how much it flexes.
On the other hand...
Good painter you might dig. Dude's pretty wild with his spraygun but you can tell he does what he came to the job to do - make money.
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Buy a new tub.
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They're frequently built in tho so you're up for demolition, plumbing, carpentry or masonry, tiling, and painting, as well as the purchase of the new tub.
Japanese hotels have a small bathroom blow molded in a single casting. The whole room is one piece of plastic, no joints, with a sink and a toilet installed later. It's wild. Super effective against leaks, I guess, but if you ever had to replace it you'd have to tear a side off the building to crane a new one in.
Johnny, I say you take some old house paint, throw some sand in it, and tell 'em it's the latest thing in non-slip safety coatings.
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i have used sherwin williams xim brand in a spraycan wich was a total failure
i have used rustoleum tub 2 part epoxy another failure
im having a tuff time trying to find the best product that lasts and wont peel
None work. I've seen about a hundred refurbished tubs done. Tubs from the 1920's with the claw feet and none every came out right. I've seen them sent away to be done by professionals that have done HGTV Homes, only to come back and start peeling.
Losing battle.
STAY POSITIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Just take a shower.
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None work. I've seen about a hundred refurbished tubs done. Tubs from the 1920's with the claw feet and none every came out right. I've seen them sent away to be done by professionals that have done HGTV Homes, only to come back and start peeling.
Losing battle.
STAY POSITIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
similar experiences
try positive STAY!!!!!!!!!
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None work. I've seen about a hundred refurbished tubs done. Tubs from the 1920's with the claw feet and none every came out right. I've seen them sent away to be done by professionals that have done HGTV Homes, only to come back and start peeling.
Losing battle.
STAY POSITIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I agree, shit don't work Neeg, always looks like crap within a year or 2
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A good friend of mine(an enamel professional) used to do a lot of bathtub resurfaceing for a number of Hollywoodites who lived in beautiful but old mansions in the Beverly Hills area.
Believe it or not but he picked up most of his clients at AA meetings.
"Hello! I'm an enamel expert!"
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And as EYEBALL so states above, it's best to get it done professionally.
If done by a pro it's gonna look damn brand new and shine like a white man's heel.
I've never heard of any paint application that really worked well ... nor over time.
Don't forget the sink also, but I've never heard of a pro redoing the toilet, but it's possible I guess.
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None work. I've seen about a hundred refurbished tubs done. Tubs from the 1920's with the claw feet and none every came out right. I've seen them sent away to be done by professionals that have done HGTV Homes, only to come back and start peeling.
Losing battle.
STAY POSITIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Those have to be kiln fired. It's basically melted glass (vitreous enamel) over iron or steel. Far as I know there's no way to refurbish an enamel glaze without firing. Maybe if you're awesome with an oxy torch and patient making color matching samples.
I looked at doing stoves and ovens. Apparently there's like 3 people in the world who will do it and they have a waiting list of decades. It makes no sense to me. Wouldn't you just invest in a bigger kiln or tunnel furnace and make a shit ton of money if you have 10 years of work ahead of you?
Anyway, for a backyard project, glazing something in it's entirety, I'd try an induction coil to heat the workpiece and spray applying the enamel dust dry. Might have a go at it someday when I'm too old to worry about what the induction field is doing to me.
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I think this is a pretty interesting topic, so I did a copy and paste .....
You can re-enamel the tub yourself for approximately half the cost of what the pros may charge. Purchase a bathtub refinishing kit featuring a two-part enamel paint at your local hardware or home improvement store. Surface preparation is essential, as is close attention to safety issues. Maintain proper air circulation and wear safety gloves, glasses and a face mask or ventilator to protect yourself from potentially harmful chemical exposure.
Doing It Yourself .....To avoid water dripping into the tub during the re-enameling process, turn off the water leading to the bathtub tap and shower head and attach plastic bags to both to catch any moisture that may remain in the water lines. Surface grease is best removed using a clean, white cloth infused with mineral spirits. Once the surface is completely dry, apply a coating of primer paint, let it dry, then follow with a brushed-on coat of the finished enamel.
Applying your enamel paint in a circular direction, beginning at the bottom drain and moving up to the top edge, will avoid accidentally marring the wet painted surfaces. Since enamel paint is self-leveling, overbrushing is not required. A light, even brushstroke works best. The paint should be applied quickly so your paint edges blend together seamlessly and areas of running paint are avoided. Allow at least 24 hours of drying time before using your resurfaced tub for the first time.
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It is interesting but imprecise. We don't know what Jonny's bath is made of. An acrylic tub will need different treatment than a porcelain one or an iron one with a vitrified glaze.
Also we don't know if there are chipped areas requiring a compatible filler or he's just worried about achieving a new color with good surface finish.
Thing about bathroom and kitchen stuff is that it's made so that nothing will stick to it. I have a hard time believing any paint, 2 pack or not, would achieve a bond that would survive a fingernail test on something like porcelain. Seems to me if it's a ceramic you'd have to treat it like a ceramic, which gets glazed and fired.
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Thanks, Tape ....
But the tubs that I saw that were refurbished professionally were pretty damn ancient so I guess they were of a metallic/iron nature and not plastic ....and they looked as good as any new tub I have seen in tub stores.
And there is a local shop here in LAS VEGAS that looks for old tubs and refinishe/refurbishes them professionally and gets top dollar for each of one ... especially the ones with legs.
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I don't doubt they look great after refurbishing. I just have my doubts about durability under a scrubbing sponge or ajax. I guess polyurethane car paints are reasonably tough so they might be good enough and not need heat. Still wouldn't be up there with a fired finish tho.
If I was in it to make money that's how I'd do it. Epoxy bog for damage and 2 pack poly. Farmers here have the old claw baths sitting out in the paddocks to water the sheep. Maybe I should go into business.
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I just had "Bath Fitters" come in and do my new tub/shower install. 7K, expensive, but worth it for the main bathroom.
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I just had "Bath Fitters" come in and do my new tub/shower install. 7K, expensive, but worth it for the main bathroom.
:o :o :o
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:o :o :o
For a little more could have done a real remodel not installing cheap looking inserts. Bath Fitter is good for cheap motel rooms but not your home.
No bathtub refinishing that doesn't involve an oven will last longer than a year or two.
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i have used sherwin williams xim brand in a spraycan wich was a total failure
i have used rustoleum tub 2 part epoxy another failure
im having a tuff time trying to find the best product that lasts and wont peel
Are you sanding and prepping before applying paint? Or are you just doing it half ass like your leg day? ;D
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u gotta look up hawk labs for tub refinishing
thats what the cream of the crop pros use i found out u need 4 products
etching
bonding agent
primer
top coat
i actually dont have to reglaze i used a cleaning product called bar keepers friend soft cleanser it pulled out dark stains that i couldnt get out with heavy abrasives i was stunned how well it cleaned a 100 year old tub
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u gotta look up hawk labs for tub refinishing
thats what the cream of the crop pros use i found out u need 4 products
etching
bonding agent
primer
top coat
i actually dont have to reglaze i used a cleaning product called bar keepers friend soft cleanser it pulled out dark stains that i couldnt get out with heavy abrasives i was stunned how well it cleaned a 100 year old tub
pics?
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I just had "Bath Fitters" come in and do my new tub/shower install. 7K, expensive, but worth it for the main bathroom.
7k just for the tub shower?thats retarded.
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7k just for the tub shower?thats retarded.
Yeah that is crazy.
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Particularly for shitty Bath Fitter. Looks like crap
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For $7,000 I could have you killed.