Author Topic: Adding more ground wires will make you older gm chevys charge better?  (Read 850 times)

Marty Champions

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Ive got a slow crank on my 5.7 v8 350 . I doubt its the starter and i may or may not have a bad ground somewhere? Other than that im bulking high as fuck carbs and water
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The Scott

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"In the cosmos of chaos the only interface is the essence of existence".  IOW  WTF?

Marty Champions

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"In the cosmos of chaos the only interface is the essence of existence".  IOW  WTF?
40's are a bitch , it feels in wading in infinity
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The Scott

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40's are a bitch , it feels in wading in infinity

You will be fine.  If you think about it, infinity is but a brief moment repeated ad nauseam.

Marty Champions

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You will be fine.  If you think about it, infinity is but a brief moment repeated ad nauseam.
fortified carbs help me to feel i can hang somewhat along each day, i thank ohearn for pushing that idea further

I was thinking how weird it is high in a plane looking down at how slow cars seem to move. Like time=distance squared
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Tapeworm

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Let's not overcomplicate things. What's the battery voltage and have you load tested it?

I'm guessing you'd see ohms if you have a loose connection, whether ground or positive.

Marty Champions

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Let's not overcomplicate things. What's the battery voltage and have you load tested it?

I'm guessing you'd see ohms if you have a loose connection, whether ground or positive.
i hear i need to get my cold crank amps checked, 12.6 on battery when off..
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Tapeworm

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My guess is more like 12.8 for perfectly healthy if it has run recently but 12.6 isn't horrible.

Yep, load testing of CCAs is required. They just get tired over time.

My truck's batteries passed both voltage and amp tests but, because I was having very occasional issues with the starter motor buzzing and not turning, I bought new batteries anyway. Haven't had the issue since.

My order would be:
Battery volts
Obvious poor connection inspection
Battery load test
Deep connection/ wire inspection and terminal clean
Starter voltages to spec
Starter contactor cleanliness
Engine valve gaps to spec


But I'm a total hack backyard mechanic. Someone who knows his shit would laugh at my little list.

IroNat

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Take it to the Zone...Auto Zone.

harmankardon1

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Yep check your battery charge first?

If charge is good I'd be inspecting grounds, do a Google search and find the wiring schematics and where they are located. Take them off clean them up and tighten them back down.

harmankardon1

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I recently changed starters models in my rat rod and had to add another starter to chasis ground to get this new starter to crank, since adding the new ground it's cranking better than ever,

Hypertrophy

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Ive got a slow crank on my 5.7 v8 350 . I doubt its the starter and i may or may not have a bad ground somewhere? Other than that im bulking high as fuck carbs and water


1) Measure battery voltage when the car is off. Determines if the battery is charged.
2) Measure the battery voltage when the car is on. Determines if the alternator is working.
3) Take the battery leads off and look for corrosion or oxidation on the terminals or inside the clamps. Clean if necessary.
4) With the negative cable still off the battery, check the resistance between the cable clamp and any metal part of the frame. Should be a few ohms at most. Determines the ground integrity.
5) Check the terminals of the starter motor. If they are corroded, clean them. Determines if you have a bad connection to starter.
6) If none of these is problematic, then a CCA test next.


9/10 it's #3 -  corroded battery leads.






 


Marty Champions

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1) Measure battery voltage when the car is off. Determines if the battery is charged.
2) Measure the battery voltage when the car is on. Determines if the alternator is working.
3) Take the battery leads off and look for corrosion or oxidation on the terminals or inside the clamps. Clean if necessary.
4) With the negative cable still off the battery, check the resistance between the cable clamp and any metal part of the frame. Should be a few ohms at most. Determines the ground integrity.
5) Check the terminals of the starter motor. If they are corroded, clean them. Determines if you have a bad connection to starter.
6) If none of these is problematic, then a CCA test next.


9/10 it's #3 -  corroded battery leads.
my cca was 440 out of 700, i think i need to see if autozone can fully charge it. About 2 years ago iran my battery down left lights on i wonder if that effects cca years later
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Tapeworm

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Excessive discharge causes sulfation. A guy once told me about how he used to desulfate batteries in the army. Dumping out the water, adding then removing something else, then rewatering. Sounded like an awful lot of fucking around.

If you have a known good battery of sufficient size, just plug that in an see what happens.

Otherwise, I'd just fire the parts cannon (if you've already checked connections). Worst case, you're a little poorer and you've got yourself a new battery.

sync pulse

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my cca was 440 out of 700, i think i need to see if autozone can fully charge it. About 2 years ago iran my battery down left lights on i wonder if that effects cca years later

Just once won't mean a lot...

How old is the battery and how long is the warranty?...For instance if the warranty is 5 years...along about 4 years in the vehicle you should be thinking about replacing it.