Just no. A chainsaw is one of those tools that has to have grunt. You can run real chain, not toy stuff. Also, you don't want to be halfway through a cut and have to abandon it because you figured wrong on battery life seeing it through.
Also, it's an outdoor tool. Self contained is good. Battery powered outdoor tools are gimmicky items for people scared of engines. Ffs its gonna be a 2 stroke. You won't have to change the oil.
Most of your issues will be with bar and chain maintenance. You will have to get awesome at sharpening. People don't seem to realize this until their saw stops cutting or only cuts in a circle. By hand is best. I use a file guide, although I found I needed to pack the file up slightly (simply wrapped tin foil around the file where it sits on the guide) to get the same hook as on a new chain. Not that surprising, since a stamped metal guide will achieve no kind of exact tolerance. Just don't buy some corny contraption. Btw, if you're a beginner: files cut on the push. Never drag a file backwards unless you want to kill it. I've never sharpened a toy chain like batteries run but it would be harder imo. A diminished scale would translate to greater error for the same amount of inaccurcy in depth. Stick with semichisel skip tooth and buy a few extras. A shop vice is nice.
Do not climb or stand in the tree to make cuts. Do not be on a ladder. You can't run away. Every misjudgment, you eat. You will become very aware of this once in the tree trying to predict how the branch will swing, whether it will sever clean at some point in the arc or barber or never snap clean, will it entangle or be delflected by other branches, etc. I cut the whole fucker down, from the ground, mindful of barberchair kick. All or nothing.
Scaffold maybe. If it's pruning work tht needs someone in the tree, hire a pro. Once you're up there you'll see what I mean.
