Getbig Bodybuilding, Figure and Fitness Forums
Getbig Main Boards => Gossip & Opinions => Topic started by: Marty Champions on December 16, 2013, 06:18:26 AM
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i dont wanna buy one sense i dont have to drill into concrete that often , and i dont want another tool around. im thinking using just my regular drill and bit then occasionally hammering in a nail to go deeper and accurate
i hear with hammer drills you also dont always get a straight drive through the concrete wich could fuck up your anchor placement afterwords
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Upright rows
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I know nothing about hammer drills but having the right tool for the right job makes a load of difference. Mayne rent one when you have jobs that call for it?
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im a DIY type of n.gga ok guys? i guess you faggets dont like that concrete
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Bosch hammer drill is the best to get. Don't drill with a regular drill because it will fuck up the drill and the bit.
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If you only have to drill holes 1/4 or less in diameter then you probably don`t need one. I have a cordless drill with a hammer setting on it that I use for setting little anchors and other light stuff.
If you are going through poured walls you will need one, I have also used mine to weaken floors before I bust them open with the sledge.
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Bosch hammer drill is the best to get. Don't drill with a regular drill because it will fuck up the drill and the bit.
Hilti makes the best drills I have ever used for concrete.
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im a DIY type of n.gga ok guys? i guess you faggets dont like that concrete
X2 looks like the fagget wagon is coming through town today Johnny
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Love my Dewalt hammer drill. I can set it from regular to hammer, so there's versatility for a guy like me who only sometimes needs the hammer function.
I went old school and bought the corded one...just got frustrated with batteries going and what not. Yes, it's more a pain. But I just do work around the house...I have enough extension cords to get me what I want. And call me crazy, but I feel the corded drills pick up more power.
Someone said about the 1/4" or smaller holes...I would agree. You might want to have a few more masonry bits at those sizes if you're not going to use a hammer drill. Just in case their wear out or snap. Without a hammer function, the tendency is to put a bit more pressure on the bit, and those little bits can snap on you. If you don't have a backup, you're back in your truck driving across town the hardware store.
But yes, it's honestly worth it. I would recommend getting a drill with dual settings if you don't drill concrete that much. When you need to put a lot of holes into concrete, do you want to spend 20 minutes (hammer), or 40 minutes (regular)?
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Love my Dewalt hammer drill. I can set it from regular to hammer, so there's versatility for a guy like me who only sometimes needs the hammer function.
I went old school and bought the corded one...just got frustrated with batteries going and what not. Yes, it's more a pain. But I just do work around the house...I have enough extension cords to get me what I want. And call me crazy, but I feel the corded drills pick up more power.
Someone said about the 1/4" or smaller holes...I would agree. You might want to have a few more masonry bits at those sizes if you're not going to use a hammer drill. Just in case their wear out or snap. Without a hammer function, the tendency is to put a bit more pressure on the bit, and those little bits can snap on you. If you don't have a backup, you're back in your truck driving across town the hardware store.
But yes, it's honestly worth it. I would recommend getting a drill with dual settings if you don't drill concrete that much. When you need to put a lot of holes into concrete, do you want to spend 20 minutes (hammer), or 40 minutes (regular)?
Good post.
I use my impact driver when drilling concrete. Works pretty good, I've got the rigid one.
For deeper shit, I use a cheap 1/2" drill from Harbor freight. High RPM and does the job.
(http://a248.e.akamai.net/origin-cdn.volusion.com/qepqa.jkvgw/v/vspfiles/photos/2980-2.jpg?1329747061)
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Good post.
I use my impact driver when drilling concrete. Works pretty good, I've got the rigid one.
For deeper shit, I use a cheap 1/2" drill from Harbor freight. High RPM and does the job.
(http://a248.e.akamai.net/origin-cdn.volusion.com/qepqa.jkvgw/v/vspfiles/photos/2980-2.jpg?1329747061)
does it deliver enough power?i don't really dig those batteries powered tool especially drills
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does it deliver enough power?i don't really dig those batteries powered tool especially drills
The batteries are pretty good in these but it's definitely for light duty shit. If you're drilling 1/2"+ I would go with this for $80
(http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Milwaukee-1-2-in-Heavy-Duty-Hammer-Drill-5380-81-/00/s/NTAwWDUwMA==/z/1AQAAMXQlgtSo0oQ/$_35.JPG)
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hammer curls
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Buy a corded sds hammer drill.
The difference in unreal compared to a shitty normal drill which will take 5x longer and burn through 2 bits per day.
I have a dewalt one and when fitting conservatorys and windows it goes straight through the steel reinforcement in the pvc and the brick/block in seconds.
No swapping bits ect.
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Buy a corded sds hammer drill.The difference in unreal compared to a shitty normal drill which will take 5x longer and burn through 2 bits per day.
I have a dewalt one and when fitting conservatorys and windows it goes straight through the steel reinforcement in the pvc and the brick/block in seconds.
No swapping bits ect.
This. For brick a standard hammer drill is ok. For concrete you want SDS.
If most of your work is underfoot, get a heavier one (probably will be cheaper too) and it'll double as a light duty demo hammer. If you're doing commercial ceilings or going into overhead concrete a lot then it's worth spending money on a 36v battery Hilti or Bosch, but 99% chance a mains powered mid priced SDS will do what you want unless you are a commercial ceilings contractor.
Any drill will meander in concrete to some degree as the aggregate in the crete kicks the bit around. If you're using C-track then who cares. If timber then pre-drill the wood and use your bore to keep the line.
Don't use a twist drill into masonry unless you want to look like a complete ass, dull the bit almost instantly, and swear like a sailor. They are designed for drilling metal. Metal cuts by being shaved away. Masonry requires percussion to pulverize it. The only exception I can think of is cold fired bricks like you would get in a historic structure or non fired blocks like adobe, but even then I would use a hammer bit without percussion. Concrete, forget it. You won't touch a high mpa concrete without percussion.
I've been using ramset chem anchor for the first time. Amazing product if you're hanging off soft stuff.
What's the job, John? Partition wall?
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Buy a cheap hammer drill then return it when you're done (if you're only using it once)
A piece of wire or plastic zip tie inserted beside your fastener will keep it from moving, assuming you use the correct size bit relative to your fastener.
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Is this the fucking Home Depot forum??!!! Goddamn shit threads.
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Is this the fucking Home Depot forum??!!! Goddamn shit threads.
These are the sort of things that matter in real life. Sorry you have no use here..
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These are the sort of things that matter in real life. Sorry you have no use here..
shizzo being of a more feminine nature has zero interest in a thread regarding tools.
On the other hand a thread on knitting, sewing, sucking cock ect ect would be right up his street.
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A jackhammer will beat the piss out of concrete.
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Buy a cheap hammer drill then return it when you're done (if you're only using it once)
A piece of wire or plastic zip tie inserted beside your fastener will keep it from moving, assuming you use the correct size bit relative to your fastener.
Oh lawd above. There's a lot of options anchoring into masonry but these aren't among them. Don't do it, Brink.
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shizzo being of a more feminine nature has zero interest in a thread regarding tools.
On the other hand a thread on knitting, sewing, sucking cock ect ect would be right up his street alley
fixed.
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shizzo being of a more feminine nature has zero interest in a thread regarding tools.
On the other hand a thread on knitting, sewing, sucking cock ect ect would be right up his street.
Real men have the money to have other people do the work for them ;)
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Ah.... johnny was talking about an impact driver.
hell yeah, imoact drivers are awesome. Im partial to lith ion milwaukees myself. Use them on all my motor builds
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Real men have the money to have other people do the work for them ;)
Spoken like a man with soft little girly hands! >:(
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Spoken like a man with soft little girly hands! >:(
It is actually true :-X I am 6'0 but have the hands of a guy that is 5'6.
I need someone to hold my whopper for me.
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Ah.... johnny was talking about an impact driver.
hell yeah, imoact drivers are awesome. Im partial to lith ion milwaukees myself. Use them on all my motor builds
Young Jonathan seems a bit confused.
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It is actually true :-X I am 6'0 but have the hands of a guy that is 5'6.
I need someone to hold my whopper for me.
pm sent
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Real men have the money to have watch from my basement bedroom as mother pays other people do the work for her ;)
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If you only have to drill holes 1/4 or less in diameter then you probably don`t need one. I have a cordless drill with a hammer setting on it that I use for setting little anchors and other light stuff.
If you are going through poured walls you will need one, I have also used mine to weaken floors before I bust them open with the sledge.
have you a moustache?
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This. For brick a standard hammer drill is ok. For concrete you want SDS.
If most of your work is underfoot, get a heavier one (probably will be cheaper too) and it'll double as a light duty demo hammer. If you're doing commercial ceilings or going into overhead concrete a lot then it's worth spending money on a 36v battery Hilti or Bosch, but 99% chance a mains powered mid priced SDS will do what you want unless you are a commercial ceilings contractor.
Any drill will meander in concrete to some degree as the aggregate in the crete kicks the bit around. If you're using C-track then who cares. If timber then pre-drill the wood and use your bore to keep the line.
Don't use a twist drill into masonry unless you want to look like a complete ass, dull the bit almost instantly, and swear like a sailor. They are designed for drilling metal. Metal cuts by being shaved away. Masonry requires percussion to pulverize it. The only exception I can think of is cold fired bricks like you would get in a historic structure or non fired blocks like adobe, but even then I would use a hammer bit without percussion. Concrete, forget it. You won't touch a high mpa concrete without percussion.
I've been using ramset chem anchor for the first time. Amazing product if you're hanging off soft stuff.
What's the job, John? Partition wall?
And my respect for tapeworm grows, if that's possible. Great post sir!
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And my respect for tapeworm grows, if that's possible. Great post sir!
Thanks man. I don't have enough money to hire other people to do the work for me, so I figred I'd find some people with money and then take all of theirs for drilling some holes! ;D
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Tapeworm.is definitely high in my 'solid poster that flies under the radar but always seems to impress' category.
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shizzo being of a more feminine nature has zero interest in a thread regarding tools.
On the other hand a thread on knitting, sewing, sucking cock ect ect would be right up his street.
Yup. Sucking cock, winning sausage swallowing contests... These are essential skills in the shitzo school of fatherhood.
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Oh lawd above. There's a lot of options anchoring into masonry but these aren't among them. Don't do it, Brink.
Tried tested and true methods brother. ;)
Just don't go bragging about them to a seasoned engineer.
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i dont wanna buy one sense i dont have to drill into concrete that often , and i dont want another tool around. im thinking using just my regular drill and bit then occasionally hammering in a nail to go deeper and accurate
i hear with hammer drills you also dont always get a straight drive through the concrete wich could fuck up your anchor placement afterwords
Hammer drills are the only way to go drilling concrete. If you have trouble with control, be sure to get one with two handles. Use goggles and dust mask.
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hammer curls
TSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS..... BOOOOOMMMM!!!!
;D
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Tapeworm.is definitely high in my 'solid poster that flies under the radar but always seems to impress' category.
exactly he needs to post pics
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This. For brick a standard hammer drill is ok. For concrete you want SDS.
If most of your work is underfoot, get a heavier one (probably will be cheaper too) and it'll double as a light duty demo hammer. If you're doing commercial ceilings or going into overhead concrete a lot then it's worth spending money on a 36v battery Hilti or Bosch, but 99% chance a mains powered mid priced SDS will do what you want unless you are a commercial ceilings contractor.
Any drill will meander in concrete to some degree as the aggregate in the crete kicks the bit around. If you're using C-track then who cares. If timber then pre-drill the wood and use your bore to keep the line.
Don't use a twist drill into masonry unless you want to look like a complete ass, dull the bit almost instantly, and swear like a sailor. They are designed for drilling metal. Metal cuts by being shaved away. Masonry requires percussion to pulverize it. The only exception I can think of is cold fired bricks like you would get in a historic structure or non fired blocks like adobe, but even then I would use a hammer bit without percussion. Concrete, forget it. You won't touch a high mpa concrete without percussion.
I've been using ramset chem anchor for the first time. Amazing product if you're hanging off soft stuff.
What's the job, John? Partition wall?
nope just laying a metal tac strips over some tiles in a door way lol i only need to go about an inch deep, so what about just using a masonry bit on a normal drill (not a hammer drill) going an inch deep . yes i already made a cock out of myself breaking the 5/32 bit (non masonry bit) in about a minite
out of all the resedentials i deal with i never have to do any masonry or concrete im an amateur at this stuff
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i cant seem to mix sakrete mortar/stucco type s properly either it always dusts off like a little bitch even though i followed directions to the fucking t- on the bag ::)
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4 litres per bag, add more if needed
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4 litres per bag, add more if needed
80 pound bag?
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80 pound bag?
50lb bag, my bad..
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nope just laying a metal tac strips over some tiles in a door way lol i only need to go about an inch deep, so what about just using a masonry bit on a normal drill (not a hammer drill) going an inch deep . yes i already made a cock out of myself breaking the 5/32 bit (non masonry bit) in about a minite
out of all the resedentials i deal with i never have to do any masonry or concrete im an amateur at this stuff
You need a core drill , Falcon . I will teach you how to use it.
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X2 looks like the fagget wagon is coming through town today Johnny
ROFL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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You need a core drill , Falcon . I will teach you how to use it.
that sounds hardcore i bet you need a real guy tool to put a whole in those beams
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I thought this was about hammering fat ass hoes..
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i dont wanna buy one sense i dont have to drill into concrete that often , and i dont want another tool around. im thinking using just my regular drill and bit then occasionally hammering in a nail to go deeper and accurate
i hear with hammer drills you also dont always get a straight drive through the concrete wich could fuck up your anchor placement afterwords
Having broken up some concrete in my day (rerouted the plumbing in a basement of a house I once owned), I recommend you use a hammer drill unless the project is really small. Don't they have equipment rentals where you live? I bet you could rent one from Home Depot.
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that sounds hardcore i bet you need a real guy tool to put a whole in those beams
Core drills are for concrete Falcon
(http://toolmonger.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/06/CoreDrill450.jpg)
Core drill bits
(http://www.hmabrasives.com/images/Diamond-Core-Drill-Bits-CBAA-.jpg)
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Core drills are for concrete Falcon
(http://toolmonger.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/06/CoreDrill450.jpg)
Core drill bits
(http://www.hmabrasives.com/images/Diamond-Core-Drill-Bits-CBAA-.jpg)
Right. -Used this to drill a hole for a downdraft vent through the foundation of our house.
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Yes. It's like going hunting with a merino wool base layer compared to wearing walmart long johns
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i dont wanna buy one sense i dont have to drill into concrete that often , and i dont want another tool around. im thinking using just my regular drill and bit then occasionally hammering in a nail to go deeper and accurate
i hear with hammer drills you also dont always get a straight drive through the concrete wich could fuck up your anchor placement afterwords
Wet set your anchor bolts or get a hammer drill and place some dowels.
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Wet set your anchor bolts or get a hammer drill and place some dowels.
I'm officially aroused. Time for a cig.
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I'm officially aroused. Time for a cig.
Has anyone ever told you that you are sometimes kind of weird? ;D
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Tapeworm.is definitely high in my 'solid poster that flies under the radar but always seems to impress' category.
Thanks dude. I don't know much but what I know I like to be a loudmouth about.
Tried tested and true methods brother. ;)
Just don't go bragging about them to a seasoned engineer.
Passing Steve Arce for Getbig's Most Dangerous Hombre.
exactly he needs to post pics
I post pictures all the time.
nope just laying a metal tac strips over some tiles in a door way lol i only need to go about an inch deep, so what about just using a masonry bit on a normal drill (not a hammer drill) going an inch deep . yes i already made a cock out of myself breaking the 5/32 bit (non masonry bit) in about a minite
out of all the resedentials i deal with i never have to do any masonry or concrete im an amateur at this stuff
I think I drilled tile (glued in place) once. I probably did use a twist drill, lol, or maybe a masonry bit w/o hammer. I think different tiles need different treatment. Porcelain would probably crack. There are drills just for tiles. Never used one tho.
Do you mean it's a threshold strip? Resi maintenance work? I'd probably just glue it and go home early. You'd want some glue under it anyway to stop it clacking in between fixing points, so I say never mind about the fixings at all. Fuck it. It's already on the floor. Where's it gonna fall? Idk what's most suitable but liquid nails sticks to everything and epoxys are very serious and you could walk across it within minutes.
i cant seem to mix sakrete mortar/stucco type s properly either it always dusts off like a little bitch even though i followed directions to the fucking t- on the bag ::)
Cement needs to set (undergo hydration) before it dries out or you get a chalky result. Most people fail to understand that drying and setting are two different things. It will set properly if you keep water in it like this:
1. If you're unaccustomed to plasters and stucco, you're probably spreading it too thin. Nothing less than 3/8" per coat will do. (If a patch job doesn't afford you 3/8 depth you can get away with less using rapid set on a wet wall.) You can try laying it on 3/16", letting it firm up for just a few minutes, knocking down high spots, and then doubling up to reach 3/8. If you're going to darby it wet then hit your double up coat fast, before it firms up. Most guys here dry rule. The US seems to favor wet rule darby. Set up wood or metal screed strips to guide the rule if you're working on an area bigger than your rule's span until you're so good you don't need 'em anymore.
2. Wet the wall. Dry brick will suck all the water out of your mix and fuck it up. In hot weather wet it more than once before troweling on. Don't plaster in direct sun or high hot wind if you can avoid it by doing it at another time of day. Once the wall is done, and the mix is set, spray the wall again to add yet more water. They call it wet curing. Applies to concrete slabs as well as cement plasters. Non-thirsty substrates are another matter.
3. Use a good quality 'just add water' product, which you probably already are. They have 'redispersible powders' like acrylic for bond, methyl cellulose ether for thixotropy and water retention, starches (from potato, true story!) for improved hang, etc. Making your own from sand, cement, and lime is ok but workability and open time is much improved with commercial admixtures, and you don't have to worry about mix ratios, sand granule gradation, or clay content with a ready to go bagged mix.
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i dont wanna buy one sense i dont have to drill into concrete that often , and i dont want another tool around. im thinking using just my regular drill and bit then occasionally hammering in a nail to go deeper and accurate
i hear with hammer drills you also dont always get a straight drive through the concrete wich could fuck up your anchor placement afterwords
you sound like a fat housewife without any technical knowledge, buy diamond drill set
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Thanks dude. I don't know much but what I know I like to be a loudmouth about.
Passing Steve Arce for Getbig's Most Dangerous Hombre.
I post pictures all the time.
I think I drilled tile (glued in place) once. I probably did use a twist drill, lol, or maybe a masonry bit w/o hammer. I think different tiles need different treatment. Porcelain would probably crack. There are drills just for tiles. Never used one tho.
Do you mean it's a threshold strip? Resi maintenance work? I'd probably just glue it and go home early. You'd want some glue under it anyway to stop it clacking in between fixing points, so I say never mind about the fixings at all. Fuck it. It's already on the floor. Where's it gonna fall? Idk what's most suitable but liquid nails sticks to everything and epoxys are very serious and you could walk across it within minutes.
Cement needs to set (undergo hydration) before it dries out or you get a chalky result. Most people fail to understand that drying and setting are two different things. It will set properly if you keep water in it like this:
1. If you're unaccustomed to plasters and stucco, you're probably spreading it too thin. Nothing less than 3/8" per coat will do. (If a patch job doesn't afford you 3/8 depth you can get away with less using rapid set on a wet wall.) You can try laying it on 3/16", letting it firm up for just a few minutes, knocking down high spots, and then doubling up to reach 3/8. If you're going to darby it wet then hit your double up coat fast, before it firms up. Most guys here dry rule. The US seems to favor wet rule darby. Set up wood or metal screed strips to guide the rule if you're working on an area bigger than your rule's span until you're so good you don't need 'em anymore.
2. Wet the wall. Dry brick will suck all the water out of your mix and fuck it up. In hot weather wet it more than once before troweling on. Don't plaster in direct sun or high hot wind if you can avoid it by doing it at another time of day. Once the wall is done, and the mix is set, spray the wall again to add yet more water. They call it wet curing. Applies to concrete slabs as well as cement plasters. Non-thirsty substrates are another matter.
3. Use a good quality 'just add water' product, which you probably already are. They have 'redispersible powders' like acrylic for bond, methyl cellulose ether for thixotropy and water retention, starches (from potato, true story!) for improved hang, etc. Making your own from sand, cement, and lime is ok but workability and open time is much improved with commercial admixtures, and you don't have to worry about mix ratios, sand granule gradation, or clay content with a ready to go bagged mix.
solid post that helped alot, you havent posted pics of you or your wife bro
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Tape is pretty smart on this shit and knows how to grow tomato's.
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The batteries are pretty good in these but it's definitely for light duty shit. If you're drilling 1/2"+ I would go with this for $80
(http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Milwaukee-1-2-in-Heavy-Duty-Hammer-Drill-5380-81-/00/s/NTAwWDUwMA==/z/1AQAAMXQlgtSo0oQ/$_35.JPG)
I retired before my Milwaukee tools did! If you cant afford one rent one if your going over 1/4" dia
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dont buy chinese imitation
buy americano
(http://toolmonger.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/07/Dewalt-16-Side.jpg)
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Do American,s still make power tools?
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dont buy chinese imitation
buy americano
(http://toolmonger.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/07/Dewalt-16-Side.jpg)
;D
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Do American,s still make power tools?
yes but put manufacturing plants in mexico
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solid post that helped alot, you havent posted pics of you or your wife bro
I'm here to help and never post my likeness on the internet.
That's just for sand/cement, sand/cement/lime, and to some degree for historic lime/sand stuff onto traditional masonry like brick. Acrylics like Dryvit don't go on thick so you might find them useful for low build skims. Modern substrates like cement sheet, concrete panel, AAC block, styrene, SIPs, etc have their own considerations.
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lots of people are allergic to peanuts.
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dont buy chinese imitation
buy americano
What about your Kongo wife ?, she is not Belgian ;D, so you bought Afro imitation ;D
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What about your Kongo wife ?, she is not Belgian ;D, so you bought Afro imitation ;D
i buy american
strong back for plow
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Rent 1 if its only for a single use or try Craigslist for used tools possibly. A decent brand shouldn't set you back too much and you can get the corded one that has the switch for on/off hammer mode. I am cheap and run to my dad's tool shed and borrow his dewalt. If I keep it long enough he will forget he has one and buy a new one..
Depending on the depth and layout of the concrete, I wouldn't be beating a nail in it so to reducing the possibility of cracking if you beat it too hard. Use the right tool!