Tapeworm.is definitely high in my 'solid poster that flies under the radar but always seems to impress' category.
Thanks dude. I don't know much but what I know I like to be a loudmouth about.
Tried tested and true methods brother. 
Just don't go bragging about them to a seasoned engineer.
Passing Steve Arce for Getbig's Most Dangerous Hombre.
exactly he needs to post pics
I post pictures all the time.
nope just laying a metal tac strips over some tiles in a door way lol i only need to go about an inch deep, so what about just using a masonry bit on a normal drill (not a hammer drill) going an inch deep . yes i already made a cock out of myself breaking the 5/32 bit (non masonry bit) in about a minite
out of all the resedentials i deal with i never have to do any masonry or concrete im an amateur at this stuff
I think I drilled tile (glued in place) once. I probably did use a twist drill, lol, or maybe a masonry bit w/o hammer. I think different tiles need different treatment. Porcelain would probably crack. There are drills just for tiles. Never used one tho.
Do you mean it's a threshold strip? Resi maintenance work? I'd probably just glue it and go home early. You'd want some glue under it anyway to stop it clacking in between fixing points, so I say never mind about the fixings at all. Fuck it. It's already on the floor. Where's it gonna fall? Idk what's most suitable but liquid nails sticks to everything and epoxys are very serious and you could walk across it within minutes.
i cant seem to mix sakrete mortar/stucco type s properly either it always dusts off like a little bitch even though i followed directions to the fucking t- on the bag 
Cement needs to set (undergo hydration) before it dries out or you get a chalky result. Most people fail to understand that drying and setting are two different things. It will set properly if you keep water in it like this:
1. If you're unaccustomed to plasters and stucco, you're probably spreading it too thin. Nothing less than 3/8" per coat will do. (If a patch job doesn't afford you 3/8 depth you can get away with less using rapid set on a wet wall.) You can try laying it on 3/16", letting it firm up for just a few minutes, knocking down high spots, and then doubling up to reach 3/8. If you're going to darby it wet then hit your double up coat fast, before it firms up. Most guys here dry rule. The US seems to favor wet rule darby. Set up wood or metal screed strips to guide the rule if you're working on an area bigger than your rule's span until you're so good you don't need 'em anymore.
2. Wet the wall. Dry brick will suck all the water out of your mix and fuck it up. In hot weather wet it more than once before troweling on. Don't plaster in direct sun or high hot wind if you can avoid it by doing it at another time of day. Once the wall is done, and the mix is set, spray the wall again to add yet more water. They call it wet curing. Applies to concrete slabs as well as cement plasters. Non-thirsty substrates are another matter.
3. Use a good quality 'just add water' product, which you probably already are. They have 'redispersible powders' like acrylic for bond, methyl cellulose ether for thixotropy and water retention, starches (from potato, true story!) for improved hang, etc. Making your own from sand, cement, and lime is ok but workability and open time is much improved with commercial admixtures, and you don't have to worry about mix ratios, sand granule gradation, or clay content with a ready to go bagged mix.
