We lived in a beachfront house and witnessed many beautiful waves and some great rides and we were well known as the Big Wave Docs due to the fact that so many big wave surfers would get banged up on the reef directly in front of our backyard.
They'd come limping up, ask for some medical attention (mostly scrapes and bruises) and then head on back out all bandaged up or driven home or directly to the doctor's office in Kahuku.
Pellius has probably been there a few times himself.
As I mentioned earlier .... one night a wave hit the house but stopped somewhat politely before entering .... taking a good portion of that backyard out to sea.
Here are some shots taken by Waimea's Clark Little from in, on, over, and under some of nature's most beautiful waves in one of the greatest surfing locations in the world ... North Shore, Oahu, Hawaii.
I hope you all enjoy them as much as I do. Thanks GJJ for letting me post them here.
