The Problem
In a perfect world, you’d simply reach for a few garden-ripe tomatoes to make a quick tomato sauce, but that isn’t a realistic option for most of the year. Canned tomatoes surpass the bland, rock-hard offerings in the produce aisle, but they have disadvantages: First, the canning process cooks off many of the key aromatic compounds that food scientists have identified as contributors to full, fruity tomato taste. Second, the addition of citric acid as a preservative throws off the key balance of sweetness and acidity.
The Goal
To create a complex, brightly flavored sauce, one that tastes first and foremost of tomatoes, in the time it takes to boil pasta.
The Solution
Choosing the right can of tomatoes was a critical first step. Crushed tomatoes were the best choice because they would save us the step of pureeing. Certain brands (such as Tuttorosso or Muir Glen, winners of our taste tests) of crushed tomatoes are also minimally processed. These two producers heat their tomatoes at a lower temperature than other brands to preserve an enzyme called lipoxygenase. This enzyme oxidizes two of the pigments found in ripe tomatoes (lycopene and beta-carotene) creating new aromatic compounds that make the canned tomatoes literally taste fresh. Adding a bit of sugar and a couple cloves of minced garlic to the canned tomatoes boosted flavor, as did some dried oregano, which we sautéed to eliminate dryness before adding it. We also shredded a small amount of onion on a box grater before sautéing for two reasons: Besides helping the onion cook faster, grating releases fructose, which causes onions to become sweet. We started to sauté the onion in olive oil, but then turned to butter, which also caramelizes in the presence of heat, creating new flavor compounds that enhanced, rather than detracted from the tomatoes. When the onions were lightly browned, we added the minced garlic, sugar, and crushed tomatoes, then simmered the sauce for just 10 minutes. To make up for the lost fragrance of fresh tomatoes, we added two highly aromatic ingredients: chopped fresh basil and extra-virgin olive oil. Swirled in just before serving, these ingredients perfumed the sauce with bright, grassy notes.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS:
To cook this brightly flavored, complex tomato sauce recipe in the time it takes to boil pasta, we chose minimally processed crushed tomatoes, which have a fresh taste but are already pureed. A few ingredients added essential flavor compounds to our tomato sauce recipe. Minced onion sautéed in butter (rather than olive oil) greatly enhanced the flavor of the tomatoes. Adding sugar, garlic, and oregano to the cooked onions further boosted our sauce’s flavor, as did adding chopped basil and olive oil just before serving.
MAKES 3 CUPS, ENOUGH FOR 1 POUND OF PASTA
This full-flavored tomato sauce takes only 15 minutes to prepare. High-quality canned tomatoes will make a big difference in this sauce. Our preferred brands of crushed tomatoes are Tuttorosso and Muir Glen. Grate the onion on the large holes of a box grater.
INGREDIENTS
2tablespoons unsalted butter
1/4cup grated onion , from 1 medium onion (see note)
1/4teaspoon dried oregano
Table salt
2medium garlic cloves , minced or pressed through garlic press (about 2 teaspoons)
1 (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes (see note)
1/4teaspoon sugar
2tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh basil leaves
1tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
Ground black pepper
INSTRUCTIONS
Heat butter in medium saucepan over medium heat until melted. Add onion, oregano, and ½ teaspoon salt; cook, stirring occasionally, until liquid has evaporated and onion is golden brown, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in tomatoes and sugar; increase heat to high and bring to simmer. Lower heat to medium-low and simmer until thickened slightly, about 10 minutes. Off heat, stir in basil and oil; season with salt and pepper. Serve.
