This. For brick a standard hammer drill is ok. For concrete you want SDS.
If most of your work is underfoot, get a heavier one (probably will be cheaper too) and it'll double as a light duty demo hammer. If you're doing commercial ceilings or going into overhead concrete a lot then it's worth spending money on a 36v battery Hilti or Bosch, but 99% chance a mains powered mid priced SDS will do what you want unless you are a commercial ceilings contractor.
Any drill will meander in concrete to some degree as the aggregate in the crete kicks the bit around. If you're using C-track then who cares. If timber then pre-drill the wood and use your bore to keep the line.
Don't use a twist drill into masonry unless you want to look like a complete ass, dull the bit almost instantly, and swear like a sailor. They are designed for drilling metal. Metal cuts by being shaved away. Masonry requires percussion to pulverize it. The only exception I can think of is cold fired bricks like you would get in a historic structure or non fired blocks like adobe, but even then I would use a hammer bit without percussion. Concrete, forget it. You won't touch a high mpa concrete without percussion.
I've been using ramset chem anchor for the first time. Amazing product if you're hanging off soft stuff.
What's the job, John? Partition wall?
nope just laying a metal tac strips over some tiles in a door way lol i only need to go about an inch deep,
so what about just using a masonry bit on a normal drill (not a hammer drill) going an inch deep . yes i already made a cock out of myself breaking the 5/32 bit (non masonry bit) in about a minite
out of all the resedentials i deal with i never have to do any masonry or concrete im an amateur at this stuff
