got my new suit from the tailor today

[judochoke]

needed a suit to wear to weddings and funerals. went to to the suit store and bought a 54 r grey pin striped suit, and bought a couple of nice shirts to go with the suit. took the suit next door to the tailor and holy shit did I get it in the butt.
total was 160 to tailor the suit. the pants were a size 50, so they had to be butchered. the jacket had to be taken in on the sides, and the sleeves were a little too long. whatever, I knew that I have a terrible body for a suit, always have.
so today I go pick up the suit, and I try the jacket on, and holy shit was it tight. standing normal and relaxed, everything was good. but as soon as I tried to raise my arms, things got tight in the shoulders and upper back. I was pissed, telling the
guy it felt like I was in a straight jacket. he started telling me to calm down, and told me what he tailored. he never touched the top of the suit, just taking in the middle. he said you dont raise your arms when your wearing the jacket, the whole time I'm steaming.

im not sure what went wrong. should I have been in a 56 r, and tailor it down?? the suit Fits great, as long as I dont fucking move my arms

I came home and showed my buddy,  and he agreed that you would not be putting your arms above your head in a suit jacket. he said it looked good. I hate my body.

[BIG AL MCKECHNIE]

Never try to get a tailor to modify a suit.  I use a place in Saville Row for most of mine and they do good suits for around $14,000. They will service it for free for the next 20 years if it needs a slight modification over time. When I'm in Florida at my holiday villa I have used an Orlando tailor who starts at $1200 and his stuff is not bad.  A good Tailor will have cutters who earn $50 an hour minimum so if you pay a low price they will only have 3 hours to make your adjustments so you get what you pay for.

[ratherbebig]

back in the 70s i used to bounce at this texas grill in san jose, the owner wanted us to look sharp so provided some versace suits, i thought i looked like a faggit penguin guy so i told em the only suit i wear is my birthday suit, he insisted i should wear the suit as it would provide 'suave' to the place, the very first night i got into a brawl, 20 seconds later the suit was ripped to shreds, the look of the owners face i will never forget. anyway to make a long story short i was back at wearing adidas tracksuit and otomix shoes after that.

[youandme]

That's why you get a custom made suit. Buying a rack suit, then getting it tailored they are limited in their cuts and he's correct they won't touch the top of the suit that would be like making a jacket from scratch. Sound like he just took it in from the middle and took some in behind the shoulders so it doesn't bunch. Also, they are right...don't put your arms above your head when suit is on.

[DroppingPlates]

Calm down Judo, take some yoga classes in that suit

[Primemuscle]

I'm not willing to blow $14,000 on a bespoke suit. Gieves & Hawkes on Savile Row makes them starting at around $6,000. Not that I'd spend that much either. Unless one runs with the bourgeois, why would they advertise the price of their suits.

Last time I needed a suit, I bought it off the rack as separates. In most cases, this addresses the sizing concerns and should fit fine unless there is something weird about you physique....like being a hunchback.  

[OlympiaGym]

Never try to get a tailor to modify a suit.  I use a place in Saville Row for most of mine and they do good suits for around $14,000. They will service it for free for the next 20 years if it needs a slight modification over time. When I'm in Florida at my holiday villa I have used an Orlando tailor who starts at $1200 and his stuff is not bad.  A good Tailor will have cutters who earn $50 an hour minimum so if you pay a low price they will only have 3 hours to make your adjustments so you get what you pay for.

$14K for a suit bro? I'm impressed.

[BIG AL MCKECHNIE]

$14K for a suit bro? I'm impressed.

It was my first good year in business, bank debts paid and a couple hundred grand retained profit 12 years ago. My chest was 52 and waist 36 with 18 inch arms. Last year it was modified free to fit my shrinking 50 inch chest, 37 inch waist and 17.5 inch arms and is still a perfect fit in my mid 50's so I think it was a good investment.

[OlympiaGym]

It was my first good year in business, bank debts paid and a couple hundred grand retained profit 12 years ago. My chest was 52 and waist 36 with 18 inch arms. Last year it was modified free to fit my shrinking 50 inch chest, 37 inch waist and 17.5 inch arms and is still a perfect fit in my mid 50's so I think it was a good investment.

How often do you wear it? I don't spend anywhere near that on my suits ($2-3K) but after a year or so of dry cleanings they start to show wear and get a little shiny.

[BIG AL MCKECHNIE]

How often do you wear it? I don't spend anywhere near that on my suits ($2-3K) but after a year or so of dry cleanings they start to show wear and get a little shiny.

That dry cleaning stuff seems to take something from the material so I just dry clean the jacket.  It's 90% wool and 10% cashmere so the trousers can be cold washed in a washing machine without shrinking and never put them in the dryer. I always press them with my commercial standard steam iron which is actually quite cold and uses the steam to do the pressing. Hot irons are the main cause of shininess I've found.  I guess I'm lucky to wear that suit twice a year there days but used to wear it maybe once a month when I had to have meetings with banks and lawyers etc. Thank fuck I'm semi retired theses days so I don't need to brown nose any c.unt.     

[Primemuscle]

That dry cleaning stuff seems to take something from the material so I just dry clean the jacket.  It's 90% wool and 10% cashmere so the trousers can be cold washed in a washing machine without shrinking and never put them in the dryer. I always press them with my commercial standard steam iron which is actually quite cold and uses the steam to do the pressing. Hot irons are the main cause of shininess I've found.  I guess I'm lucky to wear that suit twice a year there days but used to wear it maybe once a month when I had to have meetings with banks and lawyers etc. Thank fuck I'm semi retired theses days so I don't need to brown nose any c.unt.     

I believe cashmere is wool. It comes from the cashmere goat instead of a lamb. Last year I purchased a cashmere blazer in camel from Saks Off Fifth. They also carried the blazer in navy. I wish now that I'd bought the navy as well.

Most wool sweaters do well washed inside-out on cold using the hand-wash cycle and then blocked on a drying rack. Suits and and blazers go to the cleaners.  Cleaning and pressing them at home is too much work. A hand steamer takes out wrinkles between cleanings.

[BIG AL MCKECHNIE]

I believe cashmere is wool. It comes from the cashmere goat instead of a lamb. Last year I purchased a cashmere blazer in camel from Saks Off Fifth. They also carried the blazer in navy. I wish now that I'd bought the navy as well.

Most wool sweaters do well washed inside-out on cold using the hand-wash cycle and then blocked on a drying rack. Suits and and blazers go to the cleaners.  Cleaning and pressing them at home is too much work. A hand steamer takes out wrinkles between cleanings.

Cashmere is combed from the hairs of goats so that the strands remain long which is best for spinning. Lambs wool generally comes from the Gelongora region of Australia and in the UK they have to be the first cut from new lambs or else they have to be called general wool. The Uk has far more stringent tests for material to be called Lambswool or cashmere hence I buy my suits from England. The Florida suits are good but you can feel the difference. You are absolutely correct about always cold washing good wool.

[Primemuscle]

Cashmere is combed from the hairs of goats so that the strands remain long which is best for spinning. Lambs wool generally comes from the Gelongora region of Australia and in the UK they have to be the first cut from new lambs or else they have to be called general wool. The Uk has far more stringent tests for material to be called Lambswool or cashmere hence I buy my suits from England. The Florida suits are good but you can feel the difference. You are absolutely correct about always cold washing good wool.

Didn't know about combing goats. Seems much nicer than sheering sheep.

Not sure where my cashmere blazers were made...probably Bangladesh.  Even the best quality wools, including cashmere, pill overtime. I got this neat little shaver made specifically for removing pills. It really works well. When cold washing woolens, it's a good practice to put them in a protective laundry bag. It lessens the friction caused by washing.

[Tapeworm]

I think Merino is a breed of sheep but you don't get fine, non-itchy wool just like that.  It comes from sheep who don't have enough to eat and are generally stressed to the point of barely being able to live.  Makes the hairs grow thinly.  The sheep here graze in brown fields.  No joke, there's nothing green for them to eat for a good 7 months of the year and the temperature is routinely over 100F with an occasional lonely tree that they all try to pack under for a bit of shade.  In 'bad years' when it doesn't rain at all the farmers have to shoot most of the herd but I guess it never occurs to them that hey maybe this is just a really shitty place to try to raise sheep.  The more stressed the animal, the more miserable its existence, the better the wool, the more the money.  Seems unlikely that no one can think of a process to make thick healthy wool from happy sheep not be itchy but if it's .001% less profitable than just breeding animals to suffer for their entire lives then it's simply not viable, right?  Anyway, enjoy your expensive suits which are basically work uniforms same as some dude's greasy coveralls with Earl stitched on the chest.

[El Diablo Blanco]

You cannot buy a suit off the rack if you have a big chest and arms. The pants will be made for whales.    No amount of tailoring can make them look good.

You'd have to buy separates and match them as close as possible.  It sucks for sure.

[HTexan]

If you just want a decent, not too $$$, suit. Go to men's warehouse, they will tailor your suits for you for free? I believe. Custom made, you can go to brook brothers and get one made not too $$$.
Custom made is the way to go if you have the money. Suits,and all menswear, are all about fit. Cheap fabric but very well fitted suit will almost always look better then a ready to wear Tom ford.

[phreak]

Just get one tailored. A colleague of mine is having a few made at a place just off Savile row. I believe he said he got quite a discount, would normally cost close to 3000 gbp for just the one, he now gets the second and third ones for around 1400. Granted, bro does not even lift.

Oddly enough my best fitting suit when it comes to mobility is my cheapest, made in China. The material is too plasticky, but the fit is great. Plenty of room to put my arms in, no loose folds anywhere. Snug yet not restrictive. As others have said as well: we can't just buy off the rack and have it amended.

[ratherbebig]

never had a problem with a suit fitting, if too big i use it when im bulking, too tight i used it when im dieted down.

[Irongrip400]

I may catch shit from some of the upper echelon earners here, but I use a company called "suit supply".  They're relatively cheap, around a grand, and are made more for athletic/muscle builds. Normally if you buy a 48 suit th jacket is like a box. These are pretty tight around the waist. Minimal tailoring for me. And at that price, I don't flip out if it gets messed up.

[Parker]

needed a suit to wear to weddings and funerals. went to to the suit store and bought a 54 r grey pin striped suit, and bought a couple of nice shirts to go with the suit. took the suit next door to the tailor and holy shit did I get it in the butt.
total was 160 to tailor the suit. the pants were a size 50, so they had to be butchered. the jacket had to be taken in on the sides, and the sleeves were a little too long. whatever, I knew that I have a terrible body for a suit, always have.
so today I go pick up the suit, and I try the jacket on, and holy shit was it tight. standing normal and relaxed, everything was good. but as soon as I tried to raise my arms, things got tight in the shoulders and upper back. I was pissed, telling the
guy it felt like I was in a straight jacket. he started telling me to calm down, and told me what he tailored. he never touched the top of the suit, just taking in the middle. he said you dont raise your arms when your wearing the jacket, the whole time I'm steaming.

im not sure what went wrong. should I have been in a 56 r, and tailor it down?? the suit Fits great, as long as I dont fucking move my arms

I came home and showed my buddy,  and he agreed that you would not be putting your arms above your head in a suit jacket. he said it looked good. I hate my body.

Pants were a size 50? Who are you, Jay Cutler?

[Shizzo]

I have worn dress shirts with ties before, but I have never worn a full suit in my entire life. Very overrated if you ask me. I especially feel bad for the guys who have to wear one everyday for work.

[phreak]

I have worn dress shirts with ties before, but I have never worn a full suit in my entire life. Very overrated if you ask me. I especially feel bad for the guys who have to wear one everyday for work.

Cheap suits are a bitch to wear, and most wear cheap suits. I was of the same mind as you until I went bespoke.

[Dave D]

I have worn dress shirts with ties before, but I have never worn a full suit in my entire life. Very overrated if you ask me. I especially feel bad for the guys who have to wear one everyday for work.

Some of us have made the same comments about Jean shorts. Sometimes its better to say nothing  shizzo

[Shizzo]

Some of us have made the same comments about Jean shorts. Sometimes its better to say nothing  shizzo

My apologies,  Gordon Gecko. I would like you to make fun of jean shorts in front of Stone Cold.

[tres_taco_combo]

pics of suit!