Buy a corded sds hammer drill.The difference in unreal compared to a shitty normal drill which will take 5x longer and burn through 2 bits per day.
I have a dewalt one and when fitting conservatorys and windows it goes straight through the steel reinforcement in the pvc and the brick/block in seconds.
No swapping bits ect.
This. For brick a standard hammer drill is ok. For concrete you want SDS.
If most of your work is underfoot, get a heavier one (probably will be cheaper too) and it'll double as a light duty demo hammer. If you're doing commercial ceilings or going into overhead concrete a lot then it's worth spending money on a 36v battery Hilti or Bosch, but 99% chance a mains powered mid priced SDS will do what you want unless you are a commercial ceilings contractor.
Any drill will meander in concrete to some degree as the aggregate in the crete kicks the bit around. If you're using C-track then who cares. If timber then pre-drill the wood and use your bore to keep the line.
Don't use a twist drill into masonry unless you want to look like a complete ass, dull the bit almost instantly, and swear like a sailor. They are designed for drilling metal. Metal cuts by being shaved away. Masonry requires percussion to pulverize it. The only exception I can think of is cold fired bricks like you would get in a historic structure or non fired blocks like adobe, but even then I would use a hammer bit without percussion. Concrete, forget it. You won't touch a high mpa concrete without percussion.
I've been using ramset chem anchor for the first time. Amazing product if you're hanging off soft stuff.
What's the job, John? Partition wall?
