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Author Topic: heater is hot despite it's closed (in the off position)  (Read 2061 times)
anabolichalo
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« on: December 26, 2012, 09:16:56 AM »

what to do about this?

http://imageshack.us/scaled/landing/14/dsc04395yg.jpg

the green rubber band was wrapped around the twisting thing to open close

it was in close position

was like this from former owner

probably this thing has been burning for a while but I only noticed now

tried to turn it off


but noticed it was already in the off position (closed)


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Irongrip400
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« Reply #1 on: December 26, 2012, 09:25:30 AM »

Geez, you're on hot water radiators?  Where do you live? If its your house, convert to central heat/air. If not, call your landlord and get him to correct it.
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anabolichalo
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« Reply #2 on: December 26, 2012, 09:26:09 AM »

Geez, you're on hot water radiators?  Where do you live? If its your house, convert to central heat/air. If not, call your landlord and get him to correct it.
in an appartment i bought

it was cheap and pretty old

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Slik
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« Reply #3 on: December 26, 2012, 04:25:22 PM »

Geez, you're on hot water radiators?  Where do you live? If its your house, convert to central heat/air. If not, call your landlord and get him to correct it.
radiant heaters r one of the cleanest most efficient ways to heat a home.  Maybe because u associate them with old houses u think they are out dated.  Maybe outdated fashion wise for some but not outdated efficiency wise.
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BIG ACH
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« Reply #4 on: December 26, 2012, 05:06:03 PM »

Switch or valve is probably on regardless of what the knob is telling you.  The knob could be broken and just turning with no effect.
Another thing could be that the valve is just leaking.

Trying to think who you could call for something like this.... maybe a local hvac company or as odd as it sounds , a plumbing company.  Or you can try to mess Around with it yourself, but I'm sure you've already tried that.

P.s. radiators really are awesome for warming! 
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littledumbells
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« Reply #5 on: December 26, 2012, 06:15:04 PM »

in an appartment i bought

it was cheap and pretty old



  Did you have an inspection done prior to closing?
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Marty Champions
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« Reply #6 on: December 26, 2012, 06:17:21 PM »

do some internet searches and post your results if you can figure it out, its always fascinating learning how things like this can be fixed , you can help others =good karma on you
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A
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« Reply #7 on: December 26, 2012, 06:45:43 PM »

The plastic knob is probably reamed out and isn't grabbing the valve stem.  I'd try to remove the plastic knob to expose the stem and see if you can operate the valve with pliers, vice grips, wrench, etc.  Then you'll know if you need an entirely new valve or just a stem key.  
  
Take care not to fuck up the stem by turning it with a loose fitting wrench and shearing off the corners.  If it's fighting you, don't force it or you could create a much bigger problem.  

Don't continue to force the plastic cap off to one side with shims in an effort to get purchase.  This will stress the stem and packings and may cause a leak.

I think Diablo Blanco is a heating/plumbing guy so maybe you two can get together and talk about hairy ass cracks.
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uberman
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« Reply #8 on: December 26, 2012, 07:15:23 PM »

in an appartment i bought m renting.
it is shitty and old.
fixed.
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uberman
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« Reply #9 on: December 26, 2012, 07:17:05 PM »

radiant heaters r one of the cleanest most efficient ways to heat a home.  Maybe because u associate them with old houses u think they are out dated.  Maybe outdated fashion wise for some but not outdated efficiency wise.
they require a oil/fioul/fuel furnace to work most of the time in old buildings/houses...not effective at all especially considering the coming oil shortages/high prices.  Nothing is cheaper than a modern efficient furnace that uses heating wood and / or electrical baseboard heating . Pulsed hot air when it works with electricity is average economically speaking (fan consumes a lot of electricity so do the diodes), when its oil again it s shitty; consume tons of energy to make that huge fan turn and oil is getting expensive. Also house/flat insulation /isolation are important and work hand in hand with heating system.; you have to have good quality windows and ventilation systems.  
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The True Adonis
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« Reply #10 on: December 26, 2012, 07:24:43 PM »

they require a oil/fioul/fuel furnace to work most of the time in old buildings/houses...not effective at all especially considering the coming oil shortages/high prices.  Nothing is cheaper than a modern efficient furnace that uses heating wood and / or electricity. Pulsed hot air when it works with electricity is average, when its oil it s shitty; consume tons of energy to make that huge fan turn. Also house/flat insulation /isolation are important and work hand in hand with heating system.; you have to have good quality windows and ventilation systems. 
Roll Eyes

Electric heat is the most inefficient by far.  Natural Gas is the best in my opinion.
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E
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« Reply #11 on: December 26, 2012, 07:31:45 PM »

Grandfather used to say that wood warms you twice.
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Irongrip400
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« Reply #12 on: December 26, 2012, 07:53:25 PM »

I have a gas pack unit. Shit rolls out heat, when I use it. Usually my shit is not on in winter, I love the cold.
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BIG ACH
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« Reply #13 on: December 26, 2012, 08:02:11 PM »

The plastic knob is probably reamed out and isn't grabbing the valve stem.  I'd try to remove the plastic knob to expose the stem and see if you can operate the valve with pliers, vice grips, wrench, etc.  Then you'll know if you need an entirely new valve or just a stem key.  
  
Take care not to fuck up the stem by turning it with a loose fitting wrench and shearing off the corners.  If it's fighting you, don't force it or you could create a much bigger problem.  

Don't continue to force the plastic cap off to one side with shims in an effort to get purchase.  This will stress the stem and packings and may cause a leak.

I think Diablo Blanco is a heating/plumbing guy so maybe you two can get together and talk about hairy ass cracks.

This
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Powerlift66
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« Reply #14 on: December 27, 2012, 12:54:49 AM »

My old (100 year old) house had those radiators... Just replace the knob/regulator, I  ordered a bunch online at one time and replaced most of em..




* house015.jpg (198.32 KB, 1280x960 - viewed 414 times.)
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Big Chiro Flex
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« Reply #15 on: December 27, 2012, 01:06:48 AM »

My old (100 year old) house had those radiators... Just replace the knob/regulator, I  ordered a bunch online at one time and replaced most of em..



Shouldn't have posted your house, very unsafe on a public forum. I just zoomed in to the address and soon, you sir will be receiving an Edible Arrangement.

Merry Christmas.

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Tapeworm
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« Reply #16 on: December 27, 2012, 01:28:39 AM »

My old (100 year old) house had those radiators... Just replace the knob/regulator, I  ordered a bunch online at one time and replaced most of em..




Epic dad's teeth grinding while staring into space solitary lawnchair.
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anabolichalo
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« Reply #17 on: December 27, 2012, 03:24:53 AM »

fixed.
if i was renting it i would not need to fix this problem by myself
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anabolichalo
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« Reply #18 on: December 27, 2012, 03:26:15 AM »

so i should start by removing the white plastic?

no risk i will flood the place with hot water?

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Tapeworm
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« Reply #19 on: December 27, 2012, 03:49:01 AM »

so i should start by removing the white plastic?

no risk i will flood the place with hot water?



1st would be just remove the green shims from under the white plastic cap, then turn the cap to close the valve.  I'm guessing the cap will turn fairly easily without having any effect on the valve's operation.  If that's the case you can then remove the cap to expose the stem and test the valve's operation with vice grips. 

If the cap is really loose it might pull off quite easily.  You won't get any water coming out because the cap is only there to turn the stem and doesn't act as any kind of seal.  As far as I know.  Lol.


If I guessed right you're going to end up having to rig some sort of new cap/stem key, or just keep using a wrench or grips on it.  If you're not into that it might be easier to do as the other guy suggested and just replace the valve as a unit.  Some photos and measurements and a local plumbing shop will probably sell you one for $15? or so.  Presumably dimensions and threads are standard if Powerlift got his valves online, but that would make me a little nervous without checking the specs.
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Powerlift66
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« Reply #20 on: December 27, 2012, 04:29:04 AM »

Shouldn't have posted your house, very unsafe on a public forum. I just zoomed in to the address and soon, you sir will be receiving an Edible Arrangement.

Merry Christmas.



The new owners will appreciate that...
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chris-a
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« Reply #21 on: December 27, 2012, 07:02:24 AM »

are you fukking kidding?
this is a bodybuilding forum you boring kunt, just fukk right off with all your shit threads, jesus christ...
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bass generator
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« Reply #22 on: December 27, 2012, 07:20:18 AM »

Those plastic pieces of shit almost never work properly.
Like many have said already simply take the plastic cap off and close the valve with a pair of mole grips.
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K-1
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« Reply #23 on: December 27, 2012, 07:28:30 AM »

up the dose
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anabolichalo
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TEAM HEATH OFFICIAL


« Reply #24 on: December 27, 2012, 08:08:11 AM »

ok i took the plastic off and there is this little pin that can be pressed in but pushed back out

so i taped it up in the "in" position

let's see if it cools down now
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