Author Topic: New car negotiation (Read 20653 times)

body88 · « **on:** July 26, 2006, 09:02:28 PM »

If a car is around 46 grand new. How much is a good opening negotiation bid? What I mean is how low should I shoot below my real figure I would pay?

240 is Back · « **Reply #1 on:** July 26, 2006, 11:02:38 PM »

Quote from: body88 on July 26, 2006, 09:02:28 PM

If a car is around 46 grand new. How much is a good opening negotiation bid? What I mean is how low should I shoot below my real figure I would pay?

private sale or dealership?

body88 · « **Reply #2 on:** July 27, 2006, 05:22:44 AM »

Dealership. I have been getting qoutes online (carfax) for my arsenal against the seller. I need a good low (to low) price to start from. The car is in the high 40's.

gtbro1 · « **Reply #3 on:** July 27, 2006, 05:29:30 AM »

I would ask around and find out what they have in it.What I mean is ,for example,if it ia a chevrolet,then GM employees get a discount,and I just about guarentee the price they get is the absolute lowest the dealer can go...Don't know what you are looking at,but If it is american then you should be able to find SOMEONE who works for them that could find out.I would think that all of the big 3 have an employee discount

Always Sore · « **Reply #4 on:** July 27, 2006, 05:35:22 AM »

try a couple of web sites NADA or Edmouns.com to get a idea of what the car sells for in your area then email the dealer to ask for the pricing sheet showing all the cost and then run a check online to see how much they market it up. you can nowadays do almost all your hard nose back and forth online and have a price exactly done before you walk into a dealer.The more you know the less they dick with you.

body88 · « **Reply #5 on:** July 27, 2006, 05:47:10 AM »

Quote from: gtbro1 on July 27, 2006, 05:29:30 AM

I would ask around and find out what they have in it.What I mean is ,for example,if it ia a chevrolet,then GM employees get a discount,and I just about guarentee the price they get is the absolute lowest the dealer can go...Don't know what you are looking at,but If it is american then you should be able to find SOMEONE who works for them that could find out.I would think that all of the big 3 have an employee discount

Euro.... But I do know a girl that works at BWM. Thanks for the tip.

body88 · « **Reply #6 on:** July 27, 2006, 05:48:01 AM »

Quote from: Always Sore on July 27, 2006, 05:35:22 AM

try a couple of web sites NADA or Edmouns.com to get a idea of what the car sells for in your area then email the dealer to ask for the pricing sheet showing all the cost and then run a check online to see how much they market it up. you can nowadays do almost all your hard nose back and forth online and have a price exactly done before you walk into a dealer.The more you know the less they dick with you.

I got a couple qoutes so far. I will try these sites. Thanks for the tip on the pricing sheet.

ToxicAvenger · « **Reply #7 on:** July 27, 2006, 06:08:31 AM »

Quote from: body88 on July 26, 2006, 09:02:28 PM

If a car is around 46 grand new. How much is a good opening negotiation bid? What I mean is how low should I shoot below my real figure I would pay?

www.carmax.com

liberty · « **Reply #8 on:** July 27, 2006, 07:27:37 AM »

Kelly Blue Book

http://www.kbb.com/

body88 · « **Reply #9 on:** July 27, 2006, 07:30:15 AM »

Thanks guys. I just found out the evolution 9 is coming out in a month and a half so I am going to hold of till I can drive the little monster. It is between that and the new m3. But the new evo is supposed to be insane. Lighter with more horses than the old(the new one will have over 300. The old was 290). 18 grand less than the m3 two : ) I was looking at a jet black m3. They wanted just under 50 for it. Only thing is real wheel drive is a pain around here. The new evo will be around 36 grand. Sick cars. ( I am into road racing cars, not a drag guy)

YoMamaBeenLurking · « **Reply #10 on:** July 27, 2006, 07:41:31 AM »

Body, do your homework on msnauto, kelly, and edmunds. Talk to others who have the same vehicle or similar. Get an idea of what the car should really be sold for and then offer a bit less. Do NOT get caught up in the "how much do you want to spend a month" game. Do NOT get emotional over a particular car, there will be many others to choose from. DO searches online for the car and if possible contact the dealer through their internet sales person. For some reason that person can get you a better price. DO search dealers within a 50 mile radius of your home if not more. The extra effort put in is worth it. When it comes time to negotiate ALWAYS be prepared to walk out if you don't get your way.

Just did a deal on a vehicle a few months ago. My wife had run out and negotiated without me. I did the homework as stated above and when we went there together and I got involved, the deal was renogiated 3x in one morning. first with the sales guy, then the after sales finance manager, and finally when I told them to shove it up their ass we were chased to the parking lot and offered to speak with the GM of the dealership. In 10 minutes he was at MY price.

Probably the most important thing to remember out of all of this is that you cannot get emotional over a particular car on the lot. Good luck and remember that the car buying experience is usually not a fun one after the test drive is over.

body88 · « **Reply #11 on:** July 27, 2006, 07:43:35 AM »

Quote from: YoMamaBeenLurking on July 27, 2006, 07:41:31 AM

Body, do your homework on msnauto, kelly, and edmunds. Talk to others who have the same vehicle or similar. Get an idea of what the car should really be sold for and then offer a bit less. Do NOT get caught up in the "how much do you want to spend a month" game. Do NOT get emotional over a particular car, there will be many others to choose from. DO searches online for the car and if possible contact the dealer through their internet sales person. For some reason that person can get you a better price. DO search dealers within a 50 mile radius of your home if not more. The extra effort put in is worth it. When it comes time to negotiate ALWAYS be prepared to walk out if you don't get your way.
Just did a deal on a vehicle a few months ago. My wife had run out and negotiated without me. I did the homework as stated above and when we went there together and I got involved, the deal was renogiated 3x in one morning. first with the sales guy, then the after sales finance manager, and finally when I told them to shove it up their ass we were chased to the parking lot and offered to speak with the GM of the dealership. In 10 minutes he was at MY price.

Probably the most important thing to remember out of all of this is that you cannot get emotional over a particular car on the lot. Good luck and remember that the car buying experience is usually not a fun one after the test drive is over.
Quote

Thanks man. Any advice on a car that has not even been released yet. The one I want (above) comes out in q few months or so. They might try to get leverege on me since it will be very rare. How much did you save on your deal. What is resonable to expect off the sticker?

YoMamaBeenLurking · « **Reply #12 on:** July 27, 2006, 07:52:19 AM »

Here's the deal on buying something that has never been out yet. They are going to jack that price way over invoice. Unfortunately it's very tough to negotiate on something if the car goes "hot" and they are looking at more buyers than the norm. My advice in this case would be to wait until the hype dies down on the car. Could be a few months, could be a bit longer, depends on the demand.

I'm doing that right now on the new mustang design. Dealers here are still raping people for the higher end GTs, Cobras, and various dealer named performance packages. So, I'm biding my time. In the end I will get what I want at a fair price.

Always Sore · « **Reply #13 on:** July 27, 2006, 07:57:25 AM »

Quote from: YoMamaBeenLurking on July 27, 2006, 07:52:19 AM

Here's the deal on buying something that has never been out yet. They are going to jack that price way over invoice. Unfortunately it's very tough to negotiate on something if the car goes "hot" and they are looking at more buyers than the norm. My advice in this case would be to wait until the hype dies down on the car. Could be a few months, could be a bit longer, depends on the demand.

I'm doing that right now on the new mustang design. Dealers here are still raping people for the higher end GTs, Cobras, and various dealer named performance packages. So, I'm biding my time. In the end I will get what I want at a fair price.

good advice can be applied to pussy as well..

body88 · « **Reply #14 on:** July 27, 2006, 07:58:19 AM »

Ya there will be alot of demand for the new evo x. They are very sought after.

Only thing in my favor is they are almost 40 grand. making them to expensive for alot of people who want them.

YoMamaBeenLurking · « **Reply #15 on:** July 27, 2006, 08:05:54 AM »

Quote from: Always Sore on July 27, 2006, 07:57:25 AM

good advice can be applied to pussy as well..

Quote from: body88 on July 27, 2006, 07:58:19 AM

Ya there will be alot of demand for the new evo x. They are very sought after.

Only thing in my favor is they are almost 40 grand. making them to expensive for alot of people who want them.

Don't expect that to be in your favor. Just because the price is higher does not mean there won't be buyers. Just means that the dealers will be expecting the buyers they have coming in to be able to afford the overpricing.

body88 · « **Reply #16 on:** July 27, 2006, 08:11:21 AM »

Quote from: YoMamaBeenLurking on July 27, 2006, 08:05:54 AM

Don't expect that to be in your favor. Just because the price is higher does not mean there won't be buyers. Just means that the dealers will be expecting the buyers they have coming in to be able to afford the overpricing.

True

Tryinghard · « **Reply #17 on:** July 27, 2006, 08:12:06 AM »

Really the best time to purchase is at the end of the year. Right before new years. Reason being is the dealers will be taking offers to get rid of the car before they have to pay taxes on it.

At that point you have a lil more barganing power. But for an opening bid $46,000 car, I personally would start at 40k and tgo from there. Also have something for trade in and a lil cash in hand, yet more leverage for ya.

You can work anything out, just have to be firm with them and dont back down....Aso doesnt hurt to have good credit too.....

YoMamaBeenLurking · « **Reply #18 on:** July 27, 2006, 08:16:14 AM »

Good point! Know your credit score before you walk in. That's another tactic. Telling you your credit is not that good and that they can only get you such and such percent on the loan. Usually you can find a loan % cheaper. does not seem like a big deal when they keep reverting back to payments per month, but don't get caught up in that. Quickly do the math, have a calculator with you. a few percent here and there and you're overpaying thousands on a deal number you just busted your ass negotiating to.

YoMamaBeenLurking · « **Reply #19 on:** July 27, 2006, 08:19:29 AM »

Trade ins and cash in hand...

Cash is always king, that goes without saying. The more you have to put in the dealers pocket at the point of sale the more apt they are to bend on the price.

Trade ins is another shell game to get involved with. do your research on your vehicle before you trade it. Know what your car is worth, not just what its worth if you sell it on the street, but what it's worth to trade it in (less than the street price normally, but you're kind of paying for the convenience of dumping it on the dealer).

body88 · « **Reply #20 on:** July 27, 2006, 08:22:22 AM »

My trade in is worth 26 k according to the blue book. I have about 6 grand to put down.

BayGBM · « **Reply #21 on:** July 27, 2006, 08:22:54 AM »

Let’s get real here. If you are buying an M3 you don’t care about money.

I have a 328 and have been in an M3 many times. Although I’ve thoroughly enjoyed the driving experience, I can honestly say if I had it to do over again, I would not buy this car.

• it’s too small (basically a two seater). As you know there is a backseat but it’s too small to carry anything more than a few groceries. When I bought this car I thought I led a two seater lifestyle. I don’t. I don’t have kids but I still need more room for my life (friends, equipment, surfboards, bicycles, stuff) than this car offers.

• the noise (wind, tire) is unacceptable. The noise is something you may not notice during test drives because your attention will be on other things (driving experience, handling, etc.), but it is bad. Better than my previous car but still quite bad.

The seals around the door are different in the sedan than in the coupe (so the sedan is quieter) but I don’t think the M3 comes in a sedan version and who would want an M3 in a sedan anyway? Even in the sedan the wheel noise is bad.

Have you considered the V8 version of the CLK?

If you are determined to get a BMW, you might want to look into a 330 with a Dinan upgrade. Not every BMW dealer is authorized to perform this upgrade but you can buy the car from one dealer and have the upgrade performed at a different dealership.

For the price of an M3 you can get a one year old (or in some cases a new) 5 series which provides a much richer (and quieter) driving experience. My ex had V8 5 series and that is the car to own if you can afford it. If you’re on a budget get a V6 5 series instead.

If this post is at all related to your other post about high end audio systems for your car don’t worry. Just get the premium audio option on your BMW and you’ll be quite happy. There’s no need to spring for anything beyond that.

Finally, remember that there are about 4-6 different factory seats you can have installed in your Bmer. Try to sample as many of them as you can and then make a choice rather than just taking the ones that come with your package (sport, winter, etc.)

YoMamaBeenLurking · « **Reply #22 on:** July 27, 2006, 08:24:06 AM »

End of year purchasing...another great point and actually one I would recommend with any new vehicle that is a design change, complete overhaul, or brand new design. Why run to buy the first year of a new model when you know that there will be bugs that need fixing etc. Wait it out. let the manufacturer prove that the first year out of the box is trouble free. the second and third year of a new model usually have upgrades and bug fixes that the mfg. realized after year one. If you keep tabs on the car and see that there are no glaring problems etc. for the first model year, then go towards the end of the year (Fall) and bang out a deal as they are already starting to release the second year of the car.

body88 · « **Reply #23 on:** July 27, 2006, 08:24:55 AM »

Yea those where a few of my main beefs witht he m3. Biggest one being the winters out here are brutal. That is why I am waiting for the new evo to come out before I buy anything. It is 16 grand less than a new m3 also. Just as fast if not faster. The m3 is well a m3. Bad ass car no doubt.

Thanks for the advice.

BayGBM · « **Reply #24 on:** July 27, 2006, 08:28:43 AM »

Quote from: YoMamaBeenLurking on July 27, 2006, 08:19:29 AM

Trade ins and cash in hand...

Cash is always king, that goes without saying. The more you have to put in the dealers pocket at the point of sale the more apt they are to bend on the price.

I disagree. That used to be true (and perhaps still is) when you finance the car through the dealership’s financing arm but these days most people bring their own financing (bank, credit union, etc.) so the dealer gets all the cash for the car up front. Any financing issues/problems you may have down the road is between you and your bank—not the dealership.

They already got all the cash up front from your bank so dealerships no longer have an incentive to negotiate based on how much cash you are personally putting down.